Dining Out 1 minute 11 September 2018

Old Is Gold: Quan Ji Zi Char Stall In Amoy Street Food Centre

The Cantonese-style tze char stall’s speciality noodles covered with a blanket of fried eggs, known as “yellow cloth” noodles, is so popular that it is not listed on the menu.

Old Is Gold dining Street Food

The Story: This stalwart stall in Amoy Street Food Centre, which specialises in tze char (home-spurn Chinese dishes), is one of the handful of hawker stalls that remain open for dinner in the Central Business District. Open from Wednesday to Sunday, the stall (01-56) functions like a mini restaurant with its customers occupying most of the tables on the first level of the food centre.

Whipping up dishes to meet the relentless stream of food orders during the peak lunch and dinner hours is Tony Liew, who gave up his corporate job to take over from his father as the stall’s head chef 14 years ago. Quan Ji was started by Tony’s grandfather at a street stall in Hong Kong Street in 1965. The stall relocated to the nearby Carpenter Street before shifting to its current location in 2005.

Liew maintains that he has not tweaked his grandfather’s prized recipes but has drawn on his work experiences in the food industry to improve the efficiency of kitchen operations. 

What’s So Special: The stall, which focuses on Cantonese-style tze char dishes, has its signature dishes plastered on a bright yellow signboard, including classics such as prawn paste chicken, prawn rolls, san lao hor fun and stir-fried kai lan with sliced fish. However, one of the stall’s old-school gems, which is not listed on the signboard, is the egg noodles or wong po lou meen, which means yellow cloth and blanched noodles in Cantonese. The yellow cloth refers to a golden blanket of fried egg omelette that is generously studded with succulent prawns.

Tear open the layer of fried egg and an irresistible wok hei (wok’s breath) aroma wafts out from the dome of springy noodles with more prawns, chye sim and umami-laden oyster sauce. What makes the dish special is the fluffy, unctuous blanket of egg with slightly browned crispy edges that is cooked with liberal lashings of lard. This dish is something of a hidden secret that is not listed on the menu, so you would have to ask for this dish directly from the stall assistant.

Other dishes that are a common sight on diners’ tables include har cheong gai (prawn paste chicken) that is encased in a slightly pungent and crispy crust, and sliced fish bee hoon with the classic combination of black bean and bitter gourd.

Order This: Wong po lou meen ($20 for three to four people)

RELATED: Old Is Gold: Ah Seng (Hai Nam) Coffee At Amoy Street Food Centre

Dining Out

Keep Exploring - Stories we think you will enjoy reading