The name is a four-character Confucianist proverb urging the pursuit of virtue; two of the characters in the name of the chef, Shinya Matsumoto, are the same as in the proverb. Owing to his experience as a broker in Himi and a fisherman in Noto, Matsumoto sources fish from the Hokuriku region. Chargrilled items, inspired by genshiyaki (a small bonfire around which fish are arrayed on spits), are a must-try. Fish are placed in a bowl with charcoal to remove moisture and lock in their rich flavour. Ancient techniques beguile with a rustic charm.