Don’t let the easy-breezy vibe here fool you. Oxomoco is a serious dining room, capable of great things in its wood-fired oven. The attractive interior feels like a resort, with a long bar, giant skylight to maximize the sunlight of such a narrow space, and outdoor patio. The room is lively and packed but always conducive to conversation.

Tacos are the main draw, especially when piled with the likes of tender flank steak or soft-shell crab. However, this kitchen team doesn’t stick to one dish or area of Mexico. Instead, it reaches widely across myriad regions, always balancing abundance with fresh and vibrant flavors. The menu entices thanks to tempting large and small items, including the tropical hamachi agua chile or tlayuda crafted from smoky corn on a shell. Other standouts include the brined, fried and smoked “giant chicken."

Apprised diners know never to pass up on such creative and clever plates as the hoja santa curd, accompanied by roasted strawberries, raspberry granita and finished with a spicy olive oil. Not far behind, the deceptively simple-looking carrot cake garnished with burnt cinnamon boats a profound complexity of flavors that practically sing—in perfect harmony.