While this circa 1937 watering hole has been restored, nothing here changes and that is its beauty. It is the quintessential New York City tavern and is still decked out with dark wood, checkerboard tiled floors, red banquettes and those caricature-lined walls. Like the throwback ambience, this menu reveres tradition and reads classic gastropub with dishes such as grilled oysters with pancetta in a Fresno chili butter; and Long Island duck breast finished with a classic Bigarade sauce. Pommes aligot, whipped into submission and loaded with garlic, butter and cheddar curds, is a crowd-pleaser, not unlike the bittersweet chocolate soufflé.

The legendary burger is perhaps too-much-talked-about, though it manages to lure the crowds just the same.