Dining here is like attending an underground dinner party prepared by a merry band of misfit cooks in Chef Phillip Foss’ home (he lives upstairs). There is one seating, everyone is served at the same time, and meals are prepaid so guests can linger. The BYOB policy merely reinforces the restaurant's resemblance to a test kitchen.
The cuisine works wonders by pushing—if not completely disregarding—traditional boundaries. For instance, a croquette filled with Caesar dressing and set on romaine is to be eaten by licking the plate; while oil-poached salmon with everything spice draped atop a "bagel purée" is served with dill and cream cheese meringue. The French fries and ice cream course, designed to look like a milkshake, is ingenious and unforgettable.