MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
For over a decade, Providence has been at the forefront of LA’s fine-dining scene. Little has changed here, which is a beautiful thing. The dining room is as formal as the suited staff, who are well-orchestrated and on the cooler side of attentive. Even just watching each course as it leaves the kitchen, artistically presented on bespoke plates, is a pleasure to the senses. Each of the three tasting menus features the freshest and most sustainable seafood, often wild-caught from American waters. Chef Michael Cimarusti uses these ingredients deftly to craft his California cuisine inspired by the flavors and ideas of Asia and the Mediterranean. The sheer range of styles proves this kitchen’s talent and technical know-how, using classic methods to pair seafood with rich sauces. The uni egg served in its shell with warm yolk and champagne beurre-blanc is—unsurprisingly—a luxurious signature. Meals here usually begin on a high note with a diverse selection of canapés, including the nasturtium leaf taco filled with sushi rice, arare crackers and sea beans; or pickled sardine crostini topped with coriander blossom. Raspberry-rose semifreddo set atop lychee granité makes for a pristine palate-cleanser.