For those wanting the best in Atlanta, Atlas is a must.
In one decade, the One MICHELIN Star restaurant has built an extraordinary reputation in parallel with Atlanta’s own triumphant growth. The city is now a hub for tech, finance, film, and tourism, and Atlas is one of the rare places where trailblazers from all of those worlds effortlessly converge.
Located in Atlanta's upscale Buckhead neighborhood, Atlas embodies unpretentious luxury. Original artwork from the likes of Pablo Picasso and Vincent Van Gogh adorn the walls, and countless blue butterflies glitter the Papillon private dining room. A selection of British rock music makes the chef call his restaurant “Mick Jagger’s living room.”
Whimsical and fun, yet refined with a strong foundation, the food is clearly the star of the show. Originally from London, Chef Freddy Money lets his personality shine through smiley face foie gras jammie dodger snacks, Dr. Seuss-inspired green eggs and ham, and a decadently gold FM Rocher dessert.
To celebrate its 10-year anniversary, Atlas brought back its all-star alumni – Christopher Grossman and Christian Castillo of The Chastain (MICHELIN Green Star) and Aaron Phillips of Lazy Betty (One MICHELIN Star) – to serve special 10-course menus from across the decade.
And topping off the restaurant’s decade-long impact, Chef Money published Atlas, The Cook’s Book, brought to life in collaboration with writer Daniela Cintron.
Below, learn about the legacy of Atlas from the chefs who built it.
What are your fondest memories at Atlas, and what are your reflections now that it's 10 years old?
Freddy Money, Atlas
Executive Chef, Atlas (2020 - present)
Former Head Chef, The Dorchester (Two Keys), including Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester (Three Stars) and The Grill
Whether it's the Rolling Stones or mum and dad coming for dinner, there's some amazing experiences that have happened. It's a home away from home for everybody. Our anniversary celebration is to thank all of our guests, thank our teams, and pay respect to all of that hard work and innovation over the last ten years.
Christopher Grossman, The Chastain
Former Executive Chef, Atlas (2015 - 2019)
Former Commis, The French Laundry (Three Stars and Green Star)
I see where I began to grow into myself as a chef. I see the start of my dependence on our local farms. I see where I was trying to compost as much as I could by myself, hauling it out of the restaurant and transporting it on my own. [At Atlas], Freddy has built on this and only made it better. Giving his team more space to work, running at a high level, both in the dining room and The Garden Room.
Christian Castillo, The Chastain
Former Pastry Chef, Atlas (2015 - 2020)
There was a snow day in 2018, and I slept at the restaurant to open up the next day. The people from St. Regis brought me a bed and put it where the Papillon room is now. [Also,] my two daughters were born during my time at Atlas. Every moment and the recognition was thanks to all the people who worked under me, Chef Christopher Grossman for believing in me, and my wife for the constant support.
Tell us about this special 10-year anniversary menu
Freddy Money, Atlas
There are 10 courses, each from a different year. It shows a progression of technique, plating, and feeling. We'll never make food just for the sake of making food. Everything has to have a reason why – the menu is a symphony.
The foie gras jammie dodger encompasses the vibe that we're trying to create. It’s fun and a cheeky smile that sets the tone for informal luxury. We want to hit all those touch points of quality but in a way that's not pretentious. It's a nod to a British confectionery, but ours is savory.
Our octopus chip is my take on pulpo a la Gallega. There’s no octopus in it, but it’s inspired by those flavors and look. I worked in Spain, and my grandmother lived there most of the time. There’s our new scallop tartare, nicely seasoned with kelp and caviar, and our poached cod with an orange sauce.
The green eggs and ham is a Dr. Seuss take. I had the opportunity to stage at The Fat Duck. A lot of chefs in my generation were influenced by Heston Blumenthal, really focused on nostalgia and whimsy, but the science side of things. The presentation is fun, but the essence of the dish is a very delicious mushroom sauce with potatoes and eggs and ham.
That encompasses our philosophy: whimsy, technique, and a delicious plate of food. Cooking and dining are a sensory experience. We make the food with our hands. We season it, we taste it, we smell it, we see it.
Christopher Grossman, The Chastain (Green Star)
Our oyster snacks was my introduction to the “Then and Now.” I created the fried oyster for our opening, and it stayed on the menu for years. The aroma of the hot oysters on the pepper jelly would fill the dining room. The raw Baywater Indigo Oysters is from [now at] The Chastain–frankly one of my favorite preparations.
The Vonnie’s sprouts salad was exactly as we served it when I was at Atlas, inspired from when I was living in California. My wife Laura and I would forage Miner’s lettuce, we grew green garlic, and had a lemon tree. It’s a salad that I can eat every day.
Pierogi was also another dish that we opened with. It was an elevated form of the meat and potatoes that I was raised on. I made the pierogis for my wife’s Polish family and won them over. Walking through the garden Saturday morning at The Chastain, the parsley had been thriving. I knew right away that we would use it that evening [at Atlas].
Christian Castillo, The Chastain
White Rose is from Atlas 2018, Valentine’s Day. It’s a combination of flavors that I love: kumquats, passion fruit, vanilla, and coconut. This dessert was requested by a guest every year to eat on his anniversary and literally represents love.
For the mignardises, [one was] a gianduja in the shape of a cacao pod. An iconic dessert that we used to do. All inspired by my time visiting cacao farms in Peru.
How has your upbringing and career shaped Atlas today?
Freddy Money
Growing up in such a cosmopolitan city of London, I was surrounded by so many different cultures. Also, it's an hour to Paris, two hours to Madrid. I grew up on an island surrounded by some of the best seafood, vegetables, and dairy in the world. I take that knowledge over here, finding local farmers.
I started my career when I was 16. I got my first job at Kensington Place under Rowley Leigh. Then in Spain, I worked with Paco Roncero, whose restaurant was associated with Ferran Adrià. I came back to London and worked at The Dorchester Hotel, where we had The Grill and Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. I went from molecular gastronomy to classic French, so I kind of did it in reverse.
At Atlas, we've created the whimsy, fun, and surprise that is drawn from the time in Spain. But throughout the whole meal, you are getting fed. The fundamentals and foundations of the cooking are good ingredients prepared well, married with great sauces, and peppered in the fun and whimsy.
What did you learn along the way?
Freddy Money
Don’t ever forget that your guests came to eat. Don't get carried away. Don't forget that the whole purpose is to feed people and nourish them. After working in a very modern kitchen, and then working in a very classic kitchen, you create your own style and journey.
You staged at sustainable restaurants like noma. How do we see sustainability at Atlas?
Freddy MoneySustainability is a long game. It’s education, because there's so many links in that chain. We do quarterly menu changes, and those menus reflect what's available in season and locally. We've been building relationships with local farms like Hickory Hill. CompostNow takes food waste. Haulin’ Glass upcycles glass. This is a community effort.
What's next for Atlas?
Freddy Money
At Atlas, we believe in education and innovation. We have 14 to 16 students at any one time from all over the world that hone their skills, with J-1 students and with the Culinary Institute of America, bringing different cultures here. We just said cheers to 10 years, but I think it's just the beginning.
Hero image: Michael He / Freddy Money, Christopher Grossman & Christian Castillo
Thumb image: William Twitty / Oysters