2023 California MICHELIN Bib Gourmands

Los Angeles

Carnes Asadas Pancho Lopez
Cuisine: Mexican

Humble doesn’t even begin to describe this open-air restaurant, which has no walls and is seemingly built out of corrugated metal. But what comes out of the kitchen is anything but simple. In quiet Lincoln Heights, find a limited menu that excels in tender, stewed meats and soulful soups. The chef mines the memories of his hometown of Jalisco with carne en su jugo, a superb, meaty soup made from tomatillos, bacon, pinto beans and beef. Birria en consommé is another warming, brothy hit, packing in more delicacy and nuance than the typical effort. There must be tacos, of course, and tortillas are properly made in-house. We’re partial to the barbacoa doused in a fiery tomato salsa. All the while, a small staff welcomes you with infectious enthusiasm.

Cobi's
Cuisine: Asian

The pink building with green trim is the first sign that Cobi's will charm you, and then there's the dining room, where frilly, floral touches (pink wallpaper! Mismatched tables and chairs!) and a patio with more flowers set the scene. Discover Thai and Malaysian delights along with other influences on this broad Southeast Asian menu. Start with dumplings, satay or curry puffs, those crispy triangular shells filled with curried split peas and potatoes sided by pickled onion and tamarind ketchup. From there, pick a curry or a wood-grilled main dish such as grilled prawns in a ginger and yellow bean sauce. Prix fixe options include a smattering of dishes selected by the chef.

Their brunch is worth waking up for, and dessert, especially that Thai tea pudding, is a must.

Eat Joy Food
Cuisine: Taiwanese

It’s a wonder anybody can find this place. Right off the Pomona Freeway, hidden in the back of a Rowland Heights shopping center stacked with restaurants, this Taiwanese favorite lives up to its name. Soft piano music fills the elegant space, which can be unusually relaxed, almost bordering on peaceful. On smooth warehouse floors, the tables are generously spaced, but the menu is like a tome, dense with a wealth of seafood preparations, delicately flavored consommés and classic rice dishes. Three cup chicken braised with garlic, ginger and basil is an obvious order, as is the fantastic salty fish and chicken fried rice, the grains glossy and puffed in a hot wok. Regulars know to ask about dragon whiskers, a seasonal green that rounds out the meal.

Villa's Tacos
Cuisine: Mexican

Sweet smoke from a roadside taco stand blows across the Highland Park parking lot, but the crowd gathered in front of Chef Victor Villa’s taqueria doesn’t budge. This brick-and-mortar marks a milestone for a chef who first started serving out of his grandmother’s house. The signature queso taco is instantly recognizable, built on a blue corn masa tortilla stacked with refried beans, onion, cilantro, guacamole, cotija cheese, crema and a melted skirt of Monterey Jack. Variations with asada and chorizo are favorites, with vegan options on offer as well. Colorful, messy and filling, these tacos thrive on their own but also sing with the homemade salsas, some of which are ferociously spicy. Seating is limited to a few picnic tables outside.

San Diego

Mabel’s Gone Fishing
Cuisine: Seafood

Charm is in abundant supply at this popular gathering place, from the name and décor (both of which honor an owner's beloved dog) to the easygoing, friendly staff. But it's more than just window dressing that draws in the crowds. A focused menu highlights excellent local seafood with a simple-yet-satisfying approach that blends Californian and Iberian cuisine, and the results are undeniably delicious. Case in point is the crispy, meaty swordfish schnitzel, served with salsa verde and creamy tonnato sauce alongside a salad of caper berries and shaved fennel, for a winningly bright, briny combination. Raw items like oysters and simple crudos are a great way to start, and an assortment of natural wines and gin-based cocktails provide top-notch accompaniments.

Monterey

Maligne
Cuisine: Californian

The name means “clever” or “cunning,” but you don’t have to be a particularly sharp tool to appreciate the ample charms of this hip, easygoing Seaside gem. The staff is effortlessly hospitable, and the breezy space has a chic loft aesthetic, but it’s the cooking that really makes this place a coup de coeur. The menu draws on Italian-American and French classics (think chicken parm and asparagus with hollandaise), but the feel is thoroughly Californian, with a light, contemporary touch and spectacular local ingredients that make even all-too familiar dishes like Caesar salad memorable—a testament to Chef Klaus Georis’s extensive experience in fine dining. To drive home the point, finish with a spot-on tarte tatin, served warm with softly whipped cream.

San Francisco

Bansang
Cuisine: Korean

The name references the traditional style of serving a communal Korean meal, which dates back centuries to the Joseon royal court, but there's nothing remotely old-fashioned or stuffy about a meal here. The cooking is an unapologetically contemporary take on Korean cuisine, readily incorporating ingredients like parmesan cheese and chorizo into the likes of kimchi fried rice or crispy rice cakes, fitting together seamlessly beside more classic offerings like mulhwe, a dish of raw seafood with a chilled fermented chili broth. Appropriately, the tapas-style menu is geared toward shared plates, though a starter of sweet-tangy soy lime glazed fried chicken, boasting a craggy, ultra-crunchy exterior and juicy, tender meat, is so good you'll want to discard any idea of sharing.

Bombera
Cuisine: Mexican

Fire provides the central motif for this boisterous community staple, from the venue itself (a former fire station) to the name (Spanish for fire woman), all the way to a crackling wood-fired oven that not only animates the kitchen, but also provides ash used to nixtamalize corn for house-made masa. All of this seems perfectly fitting for Chef Dominica Rice-Cisneros, whose passion has helped to shape Oakland's current Mexican restaurant scene, combining a locavore pedigree and fine dining chops with a respect for the generational knowledge of heritage cooking. The single best illustration might be a dish of beautifully rendered duck leg confit, paired with a delightfully complex, nutty mole verde, just-right black beans and handmade blue corn tortillas.

Snail Bar
Cuisine: Contemporary

Although it would be easy to dismiss this perpetually buzzy spot as just another cooler-than-thou hipster haunt for natural wine, here you'll find some of Oakland's most exciting and well-crafted cooking. Chef Andres Giraldo Florez has worked in some of the world’s loftiest kitchens, and although the vibe here is unfussy, his fine dining chops are evident in every precise, flavorful dish. The concise menu changes frequently, but the namesake gastropod is always on offer, served in-shell, bathed in redolent garlic confit and cashew miso butter, topped with a coin of tangy kumquat. There might not be typical main courses, but guests will have no difficulty filling up on the array of creative small plates, from raw bar offerings to impeccable crudités.

South Bay

Petiscos
Cuisine: Portuguese

Petiscos are as much a cultural reference as they are a small snack accompanied by drinks. They're fun and approachable—designed to be shared among good friends and family—so it goes without saying that this spot, complete with a bar, knows how to welcome guests.

Authentically prepared dishes highlight the flavors of Portugal and feature imported ingredients. The rustic, home-style cooking includes favorites such as broa, a traditional cornbread, and lupini beans, codfish croquettes and a tender octopus salad that is a meal unto itself. Slivers of braised pig ears are tossed with a lively citrus and herb dressing and perfectly paired with cilantro and parsley, and the golden-brown grilled sardines are a pleasure.