Nestled amongst the old-world cobblestones on Greenwich Street is MICHELIN One Star l’abeille, a charming, contemporary French restaurant with splashes of Japanese influence. Led by co-owners Rahul Saito and Mitsunobu Nagae (also the executive chef), this buzzy boîte is the result of the team’s resilience, adaptability, and innovation.
For our Inspectors take on the Tribeca hotspot, click here, and below, prepare yourself to enter an imaginative space where worlds, culture, and cuisine collide.
“l’abeille really started as a by-product of COVID-19,” says co-owner Rahul Saito. “I invited Chef Mitsu to cook at our home for me and my partner, but it eventually expanded to a rotating group of close friends and family." And while the pandemic lingered, the dinners progressed and took steam prompting the duo to set the stage for l’abeille.
It was a no brainer for the pair given Mitsunobu's culinary pedigree. Starting at 15-years-old preparing lunch and dinner for his sisters, Mitsunobu immediately immersed himself in the world of food and never looked back. His resume reads like the MICHELIN Guide with the Japan native working alongside esteemed chefs including Alain Verzeloli, Christophe Bellanca and Yuichiro Watanabe, Three Star (and Green Star) Régis et Jacques Marcon in France, Three Star Joël Robuchon in Japan, and Three Star L'OSIER in Tokyo. However, despite his illustrious training, Mitsunobu longed for experimenting through the plate. “I start my creative process by reflecting back on my childhood, searching for inspirations from ingredients or local food from my hometown in Osaka, and tailor it to l’abeille,” adds Mitsunobu. Combined with his training and l’abeille was born.
That confluence of training and innovation seep into Mitsunobu's seasonal menu, where classic French cooking techniques marry Japanese heritage. Highlights include the Asperge Blanche de Provence (poached white asparagus, green peas, matcha, caviar), Foie Gras Poêlé (seared foie gras, cherry, fingerling potato, pickled plum chutney) and A5 Wagyu Boeuf Grillé (charcoal grilled Japanese A5 Wagyu beef, olives, turnips). Mitsunobu’s favorite, however, remains the Maquereau Espagnol Japonais Grillé (grilled Japanese Spanish Mackerel, smoked clams, XO sauce). “It’s a really nice balance of French technique with Japanese ingredients seamlessly mixed in,” describes Mitsunobu.
But those delicious results were the result of a year of hard work, sacrifice, and facing the challenges of a pandemic head on. “We had to make a lot of adjustments and be flexible while still being true to who we are,” Saito says. “Staffing has been extremely challenging and continues to be difficult today. Many talented people have exited the industry, so training and retaining staff has been our biggest challenge.”
Opening a new restaurant in New York is challenging enough, but compounded with COVID was new territory: the team worked quick at establishing their identify. Introducing a la cart options and extended seating times allowed for more diners (and a more inviting atmosphere), and in six short months, the team was rewarded for their efforts with their first MICHELIN Star.
However Mitsunobu and Saito aren't resting on their laurels—table-side service elements like saucing and champagne and digestif carts have been added, dining room capacity has been reduced by 10%, items on the menu have become more playful and bold with ingredients, and the beverage program has become more robust; providing a more personalized and elevated experience.
But perhaps the most important change comes in the form of l’abeille’s upcoming sister spots next door—Sushi Ichimura and l’abeille à côté (literally translating to 'Next To The Bee'). While l’abeille will remain the sophisticated and intimate older sibling for those indulging in a tasting menu experience, l’abeille à côté will serve as the playful younger sister, offering guests a rotating a la carte menu. “We envision our neighbors popping in to wind down after a long work day—with wine, bites and/or a casual meal,” adds Saito. Sushi Ichimura, on the other hand, will be an Edomae-style omakase restaurant from revered sushi master, chef Eiji Ichimura.
The addition of l’abeille à côté and Sushi Ichimura, along with l’abeille, completes Kuma Hospitality Group’s (the restaurant group’s newly reimagined identity) culinary trifecta. Focused on delivering a gastronomic adventure unlike any other, Kuma Hospitality Group plans to follow l’abeille’s first year with an even more impressive sophomore effort. And if the past is anything to go by, we can’t wait to see (and taste) what’s ahead.
Hero image: Nicole Franzen/L'Abeille
