Features 2 minutes 18 July 2024

Din Tai Fung: From Humble Taipei Roots to a Global Culinary Landmark

Din Tai Fung’s grand arrival in Manhattan: An exclusive insight into the iconic restaurant’s journey, vision, and future.

New York City by The MICHELIN Guide

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Din Tai Fung, the globally celebrated restaurant synonymous with Xiao Long Bao, makes its grand entrance into New York City on July 18. As it opens its first East Coast location in Midtown Manhattan, MICHELIN delves into the story behind this iconic brand, speaking exclusively with Aaron and Albert Yang, the brothers steering Din Tai Fung’s North American operations. They share their insights on the journey from humble beginnings to global recognition, and their vision for the New York City restaurant.


Din Tai Fung's journey began in 1958 when Aaron and Albert Yang's grandfather started a cooking oil retail shop in Taipei. However, the business faced a turning point in the 1970s when tinned cooking oil became widely available. “Our grandparents decided to pivot and transformed Din Tai Fung into a humble dumpling and noodle shop in 1972,” recalls Aaron Yang. With just four tables, the shop began serving handmade Chinese delicacies, including their now-famous Xiao Long Bao.

The transformation from a cooking oil shop to a culinary icon was marked by a steadfast commitment to quality and consistency. This dedication paid off when Din Tai Fung expanded to North America 24 years ago, with the first location in Arcadia, California. Aaron reflects on this milestone: “Our father, Frank Yang, introduced Din Tai Fung to the States, and it has been an incredible journey of growth and adaptation since then.”

Jason Varney / Bar
Jason Varney / Bar

One of Din Tai Fung’s most iconic offerings is the Xiao Long Bao, a soup dumpling crafted with precision and care. Each dumpling is meticulously folded 18 times. Albert Yang explains the significance: “The 18 folds not only look beautiful, but they also ensure the filling and soup have enough room to expand during the cooking process. This precision creates a harmonious balance between the delicate wrapper, savory filling, and rich broth, resulting in the perfect bite.”

The “Golden Ratio” of the Xiao Long Bao, which weighs approximately 21 grams, embodies Din Tai Fung’s dedication. This guiding principle is reflected in their overall approach to hospitality, as Aaron Yang notes: “The ‘Golden Ratio’ is really a guiding principle for how we operate our restaurants and our approach to hospitality. It is a symmetry of excellence across our food, service, and ambience.”

Dylan + Jeni / Bao
Dylan + Jeni / Bao
Jason Varney / South Dining Room
Jason Varney / South Dining Room

The opening of Din Tai Fung’s first New York City location is a significant milestone for the brand. Situated in the heart of Manhattan, this restaurant is poised to make a lasting impression on both locals and tourists. “Our goal has always been to bring people together and share our culture through food,” says Albert Yang. “The arrival of Din Tai Fung in the cultural capital of the United States is a natural advancement of that mission.”

Din Tai Fung’s New York location promises a unique dining experience that blends tradition with modernity. The restaurant, designed by the Rockwell Group, features a layout inspired by a traditional Chinese courtyard house and garden. Guests enter through a striking glass structure adorned with cascading ombre and gold curtains, leading to a bamboo forest-inspired passageway and the central bar and dining room.

“The combination of delicious and high-quality dishes, friendly service, and a beautiful restaurant environment is the key differentiator for Din Tai Fung,” says Aaron Yang. “It’s not just about soup dumplings for us; it’s about the whole cultural experience we create for our guests.”

Dylan + Jeni / Sesame Noodle
Dylan + Jeni / Sesame Noodle
Jason Varney / Main Dining Room
Jason Varney / Main Dining Room

Maintaining consistency and quality across numerous international locations is a challenge Din Tai Fung has mastered through rigorous training and adherence to their founding values. “Consistency starts with a strong commitment to our grandfather’s values and legacy,” says Aaron Yang. “As an independently owned family business, we value our product, the guest experience, and our employees far more than profits. This philosophy influences our decision-making every day.”

The New York City location will offer exclusive menu items, including a refined bar menu featuring premium spirits, wine, beer, and sake. Highlights include the DTF Old Fashioned, made with Kavalan Taiwanese whiskey and house-made Oolong tea syrup, and the Black Sesame Espresso Martini, a new addition exclusive to New York City.

“We expanded our New York bar menu to feature premium spirits, wine, beer, and sake alongside cocktails such as the DTF Old Fashioned and Black Sesame Espresso Martini,” says Albert Yang. “We’re excited to share these exclusive offerings with our New York guests.”

Jason Varney / Bao Bao
Jason Varney / Bao Bao

Community engagement is a cornerstone of Din Tai Fung’s philosophy. For their grand opening, they are celebrating with two New York-based nonprofits, donating $100,000 to their causes. Albert emphasizes the importance of community: “Community engagement is paramount to us whenever we enter a new market. We want our restaurants to be positive displays of culture wherever we go.”

With its rich culinary heritage and a vision that seamlessly blends tradition with innovation, Din Tai Fung's grand opening in Midtown Manhattan also marks a significant milestone in the brand’s illustrious history.

Jason Varney / Cube Exterior
Jason Varney / Cube Exterior

Hero image: Din Tai Fung
Thumb image: Jason Varney 


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