Get to know your neighbors a little better at this dim, bustling haunt boasting seasonal American fare with a Mediterranean twist. Regulars sit shoulder-to-shoulder at the concrete bar, squinting under filament bulbs to see the constantly changing menu’s latest additions on chalkboards throughout the room. Start with a Moscow Mule in a frosty copper mug to go with your head-on prawns a la plancha with anchovy butter and tarragon, or smoked whitefish dip with horseradish and saltines. Large plates sing with comfort, especially the Amish half-chicken with mustard-dill spaetzle and chicken jus. Weekend brunch is mighty popular, whether for the hangover-curing noodle bowl or plump cinnamon rolls. Homemade nutter butters remain an iconic finale.
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