The Faces of
Mexican Gastronomy

A new vanguard of chefs is shaping the future of Mexican gastronomy. Inspiration comes from the traditions threaded into their DNA. Innovation is in their muscles. In their kitchens today, a culture of cooking, with a history sprung from well-seasoned comals, doled out with love in the streets and the smokey corners of markets, is transformed into the peak restaurant experience.

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Natalie Oswald & Soraya Rendon
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Enrique Olvera
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Carlos Gaytán
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Gilberto Cetina
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Roberto Alcocer’s
Tetela

“This dish is a tribute to my family’s Oaxacan heritage and the traditional foods I cherished during visits to Oaxaca and Puebla,” says chef Roberto Alcocer of One MICHELIN Star Valle of his tetela. Originating from the Mixteca region of Oaxaca and parts of Puebla, tetelas act as an easy gastronomic entry point into the Mexican culture. “[Tetelas are] associated with the town of Tetela del Volcan, nestled on the slopes of the Popocatépeti volcan,” adds Alcocer, and it’s evident through the smoky undertones permeating the dish.

“Our tetelas are filled with chicarrón prensado in salsa verde, then served on a bed of fresh salsa verde and beans and garnished with avocado pearls,” shares Alcocer. The finishing touches? A splash of Reserva de la Familia Extra Añejo for added depth. “A good way to make food and drink pairs is using it in part of the cooking process,” adds Alcocer. “I learned this from the wine world and now use that knowledge with tequila.”

Rich, BOLD flavors

How many flavors can one sip contain? Take Reserva’s Reposado expression, aged in a rare trio of woods and toasting styles. American oak imparts the warmth of baking spices, while French oak brings out the smoky vanilla. Bright pepper come through in the aroma, while the finish is long, mellow, and smooth. Rich, standout flavors are the rule in Mexican gastronomy. But put them together and the taste is sweet harmony.

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At Bombera, the Oakland, California, Bib Gourmand favorite, no plate better melds flavors than the duck leg confit served atop a mole verde that’s earthy, bright, and tickle-your-nose pungent. Built around roasted tomatillos and a bouquet of fresh herbs, the mole has an electric edge that breaks through the melty meat, elevating it in tandem to activate each distinct taste bud.

In the hands
of a Maestro

Alejandro Coronado might have the most important nose in Mexico. As the master distiller of José Cuervo, the largest maker of tequila in the world, Coronado oversees production and the critical blending of batches. To do that, he’s fine-tuned his olfactory prowess over 30 years with the company, engaging aromas in a robust, analytical method. The profile of each bottle that emerges is uniform, calibrated to the finest degree.

Chef Roberto Alcocer’s work in the kitchen of Oceanside, California’s One MICHELIN Star Valle is just as precise. With gossamer blades and the most seasonal produce, he plates up sculptures, like a chayote that blooms like a water lily on a green aguachile pad. Mexican gastronomy is the oeuvre of an artisan who turns simplicity into mastery.

Chef Roberto Alcocer’s work in the kitchen of Oceanside, California’s One MICHELIN Star Valle is just as precise. With gossamer blades and the most seasonal produce, he plates up sculptures, like a chayote that blooms like a water lily on a green aguachile pad. Mexican gastronomy is the oeuvre of an artisan who turns simplicity into mastery.

A legacy that grows
with generations

As she set out to research her seminal collection of Mexican recipes, Diana Kennedy, the doyenne of the country’s cuisine, often turned to the same source on each of her field visits: grandmothers, whose well-worn recipes trace back up the family tree and live on as the foundation of modern Mexican cuisine. In a country with proud indigenous origins blended with Spanish colonial rule, food is a marker of legacy that grows more potent as it passes through generations.

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José Cuervo was an agave farmer who first purchased his own land to grow agave in 1758. In 1795 the King of Spain gave his grandson the first license to distill agave wine, which eventually became tequila. Today, José Cuervo is led by the 11th generation of the Cuervo family.

Ingredients are the stars of their homelands

The ingredients of Mexican gastronomy are as manifold as the country’s regions: blue agave cultivated in Jalisco, fish hauled in from the Baja, crickets transformed in Oaxaca from critter to delicacy. Disparate in their provenance, these components are the stars of their homeland, hallmarks of a topographic patchwork that goes from tropical jungle to cool desert expanse.

When combined in a kitchen like Brooklyn’s One MICHELIN Star Oxomoco, known for expertly experimenting with geography, the ingredients become famously Mexican and globally unique. Take their swordfish tacos, which evoke both sand-in-your-toes beach bars and the capital city’s Lebanese pockets, with its labneh and salsa árabe topping. Or the Berkshire pork chop, with pistachio pipián mole from Mexico’s central plateau and charro beans that recall the borderland north. Stars of their homeland become a brilliant constellation when joined.

When combined in a kitchen like Brooklyn’s One MICHELIN Star Oxomoco, known for expertly experimenting with geography, the ingredients become famously Mexican and globally unique. Take their swordfish tacos, which evoke both sand-in-your-toes beach bars and the capital city’s Lebanese pockets, with its labneh and salsa árabe topping. Or the Berkshire pork chop, with pistachio pipián mole from Mexico’s central plateau and charro beans that recall the borderland north. Stars of their homeland become a brilliant constellation when joined.

Build a
Better Future

The ancient farming methods of the Aztecs who lived on the land of Mexico City before it had that imperial name were so ingenious that climate scientists today hold those ancient methods as best practices. A focus on sustainability still permeates the way Mexico's food and agave are grown and harvested—Cuervo and Reserva de la Familia are committed to reusing, recycling and repurposing 100% of the precious agave plant. Cuervo was the first to compost the fibers from agave byproduct and in just the past few years has evolved to create more sustainable straws, bricks, car parts and even a house made using repurposed materials.

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Sharing this ethos is chef Sebastián Vargas of MICHELIN One Star and Green Star Los Félix. Outfitted with lots of art and a spectrum of colors, Los Félix possesses a vibe that’s instantly clear—modern, organic and youthful. Coupled with highly creative Mexican cooking sending guests on a gustatory trip—at the hands of servers who are armed with ample information about the provenance of each ingredient—make Los Félix a champion of the bountiful produce and bionutrients being grown.