Situated right in the centre of this historic market town and encased within glass walls on three sides, this self-described ‘illegitimate trattoria’ is a love letter to straightforward Italian cooking, fused with seasonal British ingredients. In the day, it operates as the coffee shop and bakery Ferment & Flour, before the Italian vibe takes over in the evening. Start with a couple of cicchetti before one of the stand-out homemade pastas, be that casarecce with preserved wild garlic, truffle and parmesan, or well-crafted crab agnolotti. Add in friendly service and you have a winning formula.