It’s worth making the journey a few kilometres outside the city to eat at this friendly restaurant; ask for a table on the enclosed veranda or in the garden to get a feeling of dining among the pine trees. The seven or so dishes are designed with sharing in mind and are overtly seasonal – in spring you might find a superb malted sourdough to begin with, followed by oysters with pine, scallops with buttermilk or roasted quail. There’s usually just one dessert on offer, but if it’s the coffee mille-feuille then you’re are in for a treat. Natural wines accompany the modern cooking.