Despite its central location and elegant ambience, this former 17C mill, which has retained its old wheel and millstone in the dining room, has the feel of the open mountains. The excellent service here is overseen by Paolo Bariani, one of the partners, who is also responsible for the 300 or so wines in the cellar. The wine list features a careful balance of famous names and small wineries, with wines also available by the glass. The second partner, chef Filippo Oggioni, is at the helm in the kitchen, where he skilfully showcases the flavours and traditions of the Aosta valley with a modern twist, as well as including a few recipes from nearby France. His dishes are all cooked “express”-style, i.e. in the moment, which gives his cuisine additional appeal. His superb venison cooked in red wine and with a splash of grappa, which creates a delicious jus and is served accompanied by smoked potato purée, is well worth trying. In addition to an à la carte, there’s also the option of choosing from three tasting menus, one of which is vegetarian and all of which are prepared using fresh ingredients from the market.