Just a few streets from where he grew up, Selim M'Nasri has found his calling in this intimate, harmonious space – bathed in soft lighting, it is done out in natural materials and contemporary furnishings. Having trained for eight years under Marcel Ravin (Blue Bay), at whose side he rose through the ranks from commis to sous-chef, he embraces the influence of his mentor. All tables face the open kitchen, where the chef curates an immersive dining experience, including interactions at the counter. Here, diners discover the citrus-scented spices sourced in Asia and the Middle East that will be a leitmotiv throughout their meal – Sansho pepper, Timut pepper, green cardamom, black lime… Local ingredients, fish and vegetables take centre stage, elevated by precise seasoning that brings out their natural depth of flavour: raw bonito with lemon emulsion; tender beef cheek (slow-braised daube-style); red mullet pan-seared skin-side only, spinach and matelote sauce. A meal at Épicentre is a delicious awakening of the taste buds.