From the open kitchen of this hybrid space – part delicatessen, wine bar and restaurant –, a seasoned chef sends out dishes that are perfectly in tune with the convivial setting: spontaneous, precise, designed to delight without overthinking things. The pigeon and green asparagus, expertly cooked over coals and finished with a reduced pink peppercorn jus, is a standout example. The wine list comprises a constantly evolving selection of well-priced bottles (mostly biodynamic or natural) from small producers, and the enthusiastic front-of-house team is on hand to recommend just the right tipple.