Nothing says “authentic sushi” more than an elusive or, in this case, non-existent sign outside. The interior, though, eschews the bare aesthetic of traditional sushi-yas and opts instead for something more flamboyant and theatrical—the space, after all, was once a speakeasy and gambling parlor. There’s even a small bar, which means you don’t have to time your arrival to the dot but can gather first for a cocktail.
Chef Shigeyuki Tsunoda undertakes his duties with calm, unhurried efficiency and his omakase—in contrast to the surroundings—is rooted in tradition. Before the Edomae-style nigiri come various snacks that are especially enjoyable when paired with something from their broad range of nihonshu. A seasonal soup and creamy chawanmushi with generous spoonfuls of both Hokkaido uni and Osetra caviar are followed by tender abalone, rich red bonito, succulent scallop, and other mouthfuls of delight. The nigiri is an easy-to-eat size and the rice is body temperature so its flavor really comes through.
The exquisite counter seats just eight and its semicircular shape allows you to check out your fellow diners. Everyone is served together and there are two seatings a night.