Take a seat, as the restaurant’s name orders, and admire the ornamental tree that jazzes up the elegantly stylish contemporary interior, also home to an authentic cheese cave where all sorts of delicacies ripen slowly. Now let’s add attentive service and tips from the knowledgeable sommelier, who gets a kick out of suggesting unusual wines, and the scene is set. Chef Charles-Edouard Jeandrain mixes playful ideas with timeless classical flavours, conjuring up a fascinating repertory that demonstrates his respect for the ingredient and his quest for varied textures. He may prepare paella-style rice, adding stuffed txistorra squid, whose powerful flavour he offsets by deep-fried mussels and a coulis and purée of smoked paprika. Art-directed, intelligent plating contributes to whetting the appetite of diners and, even better, it is possible to mix and swap dishes from the different set menus. We recommend the Prestige menu, if you feel like splashing out and treating yourself to exceptional produce.