NESO

The endearing and heavily tattooed Guillaume Sanchez crafts high-spirited, no-holds barred cuisine in a fashionably stark interior, depicted by an impossibly high ceiling and sporting a metal façade on the street front. Cold-steamed extractions and fermented vegetables: the chef works only with fish and vegetables, selecting stellar pure-bred French ingredients, to which he adds his inimitable and imaginative hallmark and high-flying technical expertise. Varied flavours and textures, art-directed, if unusual plating, the menu unfolds to reveal little bombshells of flavour and, while some were “disconcerting” to say the least, the food clearly bears witness to the establishment’s bold, distinctive culinary identity.