In the sparkling Lincoln Mill district, this family-owned barbecue spot is out to satisfy. High ceilings, white walls and ample seating make for a Spartan vibe. The menu, by contrast, is full of personality, as it pulls global inspiration from all over, starting with a roster of hearty appetizers like brisket fritters with chihuahua cheese or fried soft-shell crab bao sliders. Sandwiches and burgers also tempt, but for the purists among us, stick with the fundamentals. A fatty slice of prime-grade smoked brisket cooked overnight cuts like custard and doesn’t need a lick of sauce. Soft, tender pulled pork is another winning order, along with creative sides like ginger serrano coleslaw or fried Brussel sprouts with hot honey and yuzu.