The Hungarian capital now boasts its first two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Onyx, which was awarded the honours in this year’s MICHELIN Guide Main Cities Of Europe. In its 37th edition, the guide is targeted at business travelers who regularly travel throughout Europe and tourists who wish to discover Europe’s most romantic and culturally stimulating cities. Four other restaurants also received one Michelin star each for the first time this year.
Of the 25 dining establishments from Budapest in the guide, close to half are contemporary Hungarian restaurants, breathing new life in a cuisine that is known for its heavy flavours and the generous use of paprika and pork fat.
We round up our inspectors’ comments on the contemporary restaurants that are making their mark in the burgeoning Budapest dining scene.
1. Onyx
Two Michelin stars
In the heart of the city is this glitzy restaurant where you sit on gilt chairs, under sparkling chandeliers, surrounded by onyx adornments. Passionate, highly skilled cooking keeps classic Hungarian flavours to the fore but also has interesting modern twists. Dishes are precisely prepared and intensely flavoured.
2. Costes
One Michelin star
A sophisticated restaurant with immaculately dressed tables that is run by a confident, experienced service team. The talented chef uses modern techniques and a deft touch to produce accomplished, innovative dishes with clear flavours. Most diners choose the four- to seven-course set menus and the interesting wine pairings.
3. Costes Downtown
One Michelin star
The more informal sister to Costes sits within the Prestige Hotel and has chic bistro styling and a friendly atmosphere (ask to be seated in one of the booths). Refined modern dishes, which follow the seasons, feature excellent texture and flavour combinations. It offers a good value business lunch.
4. Borkonyha Winekitchen
One Michelin star
A bustling wine-orientated restaurant close to the Basilica. The fortnightly menu features well-executed dishes with an elaborate modern style and subtle Hungarian influences. Top ingredients are sourced from the surrounding countries. 48 of the 200 wines are offered by the glass; many are from local producers.
5. Fricska
Bib Gourmand
The subtitle “gastropub” is misleading, as this is a contemporary cellar bistro with a crisp white décor and a laid-back vibe. The blackboard menu offers appealingly unadorned dishes with Hungarian, French and Italian influences. The home-made pastas are a highlight and the weekday lunch menu is a steal.
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