As a young chef, he looked up to the big names as if they were gods. In his early 20s and unable to travel, he pored over book after book trying to find out how his idols – people like Alain Passard and Joel Robuchon – thought about food and how they could come up with such beautiful dishes.
He ultimately learnt that it was all about sacrifice. We sit down with him one afternoon at the tranquil restaurant in Botanic Gardens to find out more.
I was really interested in what other chefs were doing abroad and of course, at 22 years old, I couldn’t afford to travel. So I googled, went to Kinokuniya, the library to read about these chefs of Michelin starred restaurants. I was curious – what was their cooking level like and what was their frame of mind to cook so well and create such beautiful food?
Back then, being able to just stage at a Michelin starred restaurant was already a big thing, and of course, I didn’t think that we could one day get a star.
What was it like the day your restaurant received a star?
I received a call on the day itself but I missed it. The call came around 1pm, and I was of course, still doing lunch service. I went for the gala dinner [that night] not knowing what I was about to get. I had friends from Hong Kong calling me – they’re chefs who have stars, so they know the procedure. They were asking me, “Hey so how many stars did you get? And I said, I don’t know, the gala is tonight!” I was quite nervous as we were waiting but I kept myself busy and talked to other chefs.
Whenever we win something big, I will bring my team out to eat. We’d find a Monday or a place after work to eat. My practice is always to do two rounds: I would bring the whole team out to something more casual. We went to Pizzeria Mozza. And then there’s the core team to a nicer restaurant – there’s only five of them but only after a while later. We went to Ki-sho.
How much influence has the Michelin Guide had in your career?
Michelin has definitely had a very very strong influence for me to excel. Since I was young, I admired chefs of Michelin starred restaurants. I thought they were gods. I didn’t even think that I would get a star – going to their restaurant to stage or work was already a big thing. So that actually made me work harder, and pushed me to go further.
I would advice younger chefs gunning for stars to… be hungrier. Since young I read that getting Michelin stars requires a lot of sacrifice and even for me I’ve sacrificed a lot. The thing is, I do find these days that Singaporean chefs, while they are hungry, are not translating it into action. They want stars and awards but not putting in the actual work. Of course we all want better work life balance, shorter hours, weekends off – so how do you fulfil your dreams?