With its stunning coastline and vibrant seafood culture, Hong Kong is a paradise for seafood lovers. Yet, as one of the world’s largest consumers of seafood per capita, Hong Kong’s appetite is outpacing the ocean’s ability to replenish its resources. At Amber, a two-MICHELIN-Starred and MICHELIN Green Star restaurant, chef Richard Ekkebus has made sustainability not just a guiding principle but a personal mission.
A Pioneer in Sustainability
For Ekkebus, sustainability has deep personal roots. Growing up by the seaside, with grandparents who owned a seafood restaurant, he developed an early appreciation for the ocean’s abundance. However, it was the alarming rate of overfishing and Hong Kong's staggering seafood consumption that truly brought the issue into his focus.
“When Amber opened in 2005, sustainability wasn’t a buzzword,” says Ekkebus. “But by 2007, we committed to eliminating unsustainable species like eel and bluefin tuna from our menu, in accordance with WWF’s guidelines. Today, sustainability is integrated into everything we do, from eliminating shark fin across the hotel group to embedding it in our operations.”
This philosophy is now reflected throughout Amber’s practices and across the hotel group, where sustainability accounts for 50% of the balanced scorecard—an example of the broader influence Ekkebus has had in shaping the hotel group’s values.
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For Ekkebus, the role of fine dining in shaping sustainability is undeniable. “Chefs have the ultimate power to drive change,” he asserts. “Home cooks may be hesitant to try lesser-known species, but chefs have the training to make these ingredients delicious and accessible, helping to drive demand for sustainable options.” By championing underutilised species and adopting plant-forward menus, restaurants can shift consumer perceptions and create demand for more ethical choices.
How Amber Puts Sustainability on the Plate
Amber’s commitment to sustainability starts with sourcing seafood responsibly, balancing farmed and wild-caught options to ease pressure on marine ecosystems. The restaurant uses sustainably farmed abalone, prawns, spiny lobster, and pompano, ensuring these species are managed responsibly. Wild-caught prawns are MSC-certified, and MEL-certified oysters from Fukuoka come from farms with responsible practices. Additionally, wild-caught fish, like kinmedai served at Amber, are line-caught, reducing bycatch and ensuring a more sustainable harvest.
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At the heart of Amber’s sustainability philosophy is a focus on seasonality and peak freshness. By selecting seafood based on natural availability, the restaurant guarantees its dishes are always at their best. They also avoid sourcing species during their spawning periods to help preserve and regenerate marine populations.
Sustainability at Amber is also about utilising every part of an ingredient. Amber’s Normandy scallop dish perfectly exemplifies this philosophy. Scallop beards, typically discarded, are fermented into an umami-rich garum sauce, while the livers are also incorporated, enhancing the dish with added depth. (Right image: Normandy scallop with salt-roasted celeriac, scallop garum, alba truffles, toasted hazelnut butter at Amber. ©Amber)
By maximising the use of every part, Amber reduces waste and elevates the overall flavour. This approach demonstrates that sustainability in seafood is not just about conservation, but about creativity and making the most of nature’s bounty.
Why Sustainable Seafood Matters to Everyone
The consequences of unsustainable fishing are far-reaching. “If we don’t act now, we risk depleting marine biodiversity, leaving future generations without access to these precious resources,” warns Ekkebus.For diners, the message is clear: every choice matters. By supporting sustainable seafood, they contribute to preserving the delicate balance of ocean ecosystems, which is crucial for global food security. Ekkebus explains, “unsustainable fishing methods, such as dynamite and poison fishing, can even pose significant risks to both consumer health and marine ecosystems.” (Left image: Scallop garum made from scallop trimmings at Amber. @Amber)
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Actionable Tips for Making Sustainable Choices
So how can diners make better choices? Ekkebus offers practical advice:1. Use Tools Like the WWF App
One of the easiest ways to make more conscious seafood choices is by using tools such as the WWF Seafood Guide app as a starting point. It classifies species into red (unsustainable), orange (moderate), and green (sustainable), offering initial guidance for identifying eco-friendly options.
2. Look for Sustainability Certifications
Certifications like MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) and MEL (Marine Eco-label Japan) ensure that seafood is sourced responsibly. By supporting these certified products, diners help create demand for responsible sourcing and environmentally conscious practices in the industry.
3. Opt for Filter Feeders
Some of the most sustainable seafood options are filter feeders, such as mussels, clams, and oysters. These species are not only nutritious and delicious but also play a vital role in cleaning the waters they grow in by filtering out impurities.
4. Ask Questions About Seafood Sourcing
When dining at a restaurant, don’t hesitate to ask about the origin of the seafood. Questions such as "Is this seafood MSC-certified?" or "Where was this fish caught?" can prompt restaurants to provide more transparency about their sourcing practices.
5. Explore Underutilized Species
Overfishing of species like salmon and tuna strains marine ecosystems. Choosing abundant, lesser-known alternatives like pompano instead of turbot helps the environment while introducing exciting new flavours. (Right image: Amber)
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The Power of Conscious Dining
“True luxury isn’t about excess; it’s about being fair to the planet and its resources,” Ekkebus says.To those seeking to go beyond the restaurant table, Ekkebus suggests exploring local seafood markets and educating themselves about seasonal species. Whether dining out or shopping for your next meal, remember: your choices today shape the oceans of tomorrow.
hero image: ©Hei Kiu Au
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