People 5 minutes 22 October 2024

Chef Kim Do-yun in Culinary Class War: The Art of Food and Human Connection

From Netflix Culinary Class War to Social media Sensation: chef Do-yun Kim’s Culinary Philosophy and Journey

Chef Do-yun Kim, owner of the MICHELIN-starred restaurant YUN, recently returned to the spotlight with his appearance on Netflix’s Culinary Class War. What truly captured the public's attention wasn't just his cooking, but his genuine approach to food and his grounded, human attitude throughout the show. His authenticity shone through in his interactions with others, and this, rather than the competition itself, became the focal point of his journey.

It’s rare for a MICHELIN-starred restaurant’s owner-chef to participate in a competitive cooking show. Initially, Kim was hesitant and even considered declining the offer, saying, “We’re not entertainers; should a MICHELIN-starred chef really join a show like that?” However, with his girlfriend’s encouragement, he ultimately decided to take the plunge. It was this leap of faith—fueled by his sincerity—that contributed to the show’s success.

“The most important thing in cooking is the mindset. You can source the best ingredients, but without the right attitude, it’s meaningless.”

Throughout Culinary Class War, Kim prioritized human connection and camaraderie over the competitive nature of the show. Winning or losing mattered little to him; instead, he focused on fostering relationships with his fellow chefs. One notable moment was when he brought an espresso machine to the set and shared coffee with the other contestants, exemplifying his belief in the power of small, meaningful interactions. This attitude aligns perfectly with his philosophy of cooking, which he treats as an art form that extends far beyond technique.

For chef Kim, cooking is an expression of the self—a way to share his heart with others. His culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in traditional Korean fermentation and aging techniques, which he has spent years studying and reinterpreting. His recipes, born out of passion and dedication, reflect not only his skills but his genuine desire to connect with people through food.

What made you decide to appear on Netflix’s Culinary Class War, and what were your initial expectations? As a MICHELIN-starred chef for three consecutive years and the owner of a MICHELIN-starred restaurant, it seems like an unusual choice to join a competitive show.

Chef Kim: To be honest, I initially declined the offer. I thought, "Why should we, chefs recognized by the MICHELIN Guide, take part in something like that? We’re not entertainers." At the time, I had no desire to participate. But then my girlfriend persuaded me to give it a shot—she even said she’d break up with me if I didn’t. So, I had no choice but to join. In the end, I’m thankful to her because the show turned out to be a great success.

It sounds like an unexpected start. How did participating in the show affect you? Did you approach it lightheartedly from the beginning?

Chef Kim: Yes, I went into it with a light mindset. I didn’t see the competition on the show as a true contest. I joined with the attitude of "Let’s just give it a try." Honestly, competitions like this don’t really suit me. But surprisingly, the show turned out to be a success, which I’m glad about. I didn’t expect it to go as well as it did.

Your first appearance on the show was very striking. The way you let your long hair down and wore headphones while cooking really stood out. Is there a specific reason you wore headphones, and do you often use them to focus in your daily routine?

Chef Kim: The decision to let my hair down was actually the production team's idea. There were other women chefs with long hair on set, but for some reason, they insisted only I should let mine down. I remember thinking, “Why me? Won’t this just make me look like the odd one out and create some backlash?” So, it was a bit uncomfortable. I guess they wanted to create a certain image of me for the show. As for the headphones, I use them frequently in my daily life. I like listening to music to help organize my thoughts. During the show, it was even more necessary because I was dealing with panic disorder, so the headphones helped me stay calm.

Hearing that you deal with anxiety, it must have made filming even more challenging. Do you have any particular routines to calm yourself during the cooking process?

Chef Kim: Yes, there was one day where it was freezing cold, but I was sweating profusely. At first, I tried using earphones, but I could still hear all the background noise, so I switched to headphones instead. Blocking out the surrounding sounds and focusing on music really helped me find my calm. I love listening to music, and I often play Yangpa’s songs to relax. At the time, I was eager to get off the stage quickly, but then I noticed my opponent was even more nervous than I was.

When the ingredient, rockfish, was revealed, I told the other chef to "put your nerves in your pocket." I reminded him, "You can’t be nervous here; you have to stay focused." Later on, during the actual competition, I said, "Now it’s time to take your nerves back out. Don’t worry, I’ll go after you." The chef was shaking, so I kept encouraging him to stay calm. In the end, they thanked me and said my advice helped. And funny enough, that chef actually ended up beating me. (laughs)

Has your daily life or restaurant changed in any way since the show aired?

Chef Kim: Since the show, more people recognize me, which is a bit overwhelming at times. On the bright side, reservations at the restaurant have increased, which I’m very happy about. I’m also honored that this opportunity has sparked more interest in Korean cuisine globally. I hope to continue spreading the word about our food in different countries. Additionally, a portion of the revenue from this success will go toward helping those in need. For example, one of our products has been introduced in convenience stores, and 50 percent of the profits from that will be donated to charity.

It’s truly inspiring to see you giving back in such meaningful ways. What motivates you to support these causes, and how do you see this aligning with your approach to food and your restaurant’s philosophy?

Chef Kim: These days, the economy is tough, and a lot of people are struggling. I’ve been through tough times myself, especially when I was younger and just starting out, so I understand how much support can mean. That’s why I’ve decided to give back through various projects, such as donating profits from an event we’re holding in Taiwan in association with the Taiwan Tourism administration and the Korea Tourism Organization. I hope events with such meaningful purposes will receive more support from tourism boards or even governments. At YUN, we’re also known for not using additives in our food. Additives often make you feel bloated or very thirsty the next day, but we avoid those issues. I want to show that Korea has many healthy, natural food options.

It seems like your plans and goals have become even clearer. What’s next for you?

Chef Kim: Yes, that’s right. For example, I’d love to expand globally with concepts like “Myeon London” or “Myeon Taiwan.” (Building on the success of Yun Seoul, chef Kim launched Myeon Seoul, a MICHELIN-selected restaurant located in Gangnam.) If I find people who share the same vision, I think we could work together to promote Korean cuisine through partnerships or consulting.

How do you bring out the unique charm of YUN and incorporate fermentation and aging processes into your cooking?

Chef Kim: Fermentation and aging are key questions I constantly ask myself. I have a tendency to dive deep into anything I’m curious about, and I’ve learned a lot through self-study and hands-on research. I personally research every aspect of the food I create. For example, I’ve been studying fermented seafood products daily for years, and I continue to learn and refine those processes. The same goes for noodles—I’ve been researching noodles for 17 years now and still work on improving them every day. For instance, I’ve found that using too much strong flour can cause digestive issues, especially for older customers, so I take that into account as well.

Could you introduce us to your favorite dish at YUN and any recent creations you’ve developed?

Chef Kim: One of my recent creations is a dry-aged fish dish. It’s inspired by bori-gulbi (dried yellow corvina). I cure the fish in green tea salt for about a day, then dry-age it for three days. Depending on the size of the fish, it’s further aged for 3-4 more days before being grilled or steamed. The dish is simply called "Saengseon" (Fish).

What values or philosophy do you consider most important when running your restaurant?

Chef Kim: For me, the most important thing in cooking is the mindset. I like working with people who have a lot of passion and ambition, and the philosophy of our restaurant is that cooking should always be a joyful experience. If you're cooking with frustration or without heart, the food simply won’t taste good. That’s why I place such a strong emphasis on mindset. You can always source the best ingredients, but without the right attitude, it’s meaningless. I want the happiness we put into our cooking to be passed on to our guests.

What vision do you have for YUN and what are your personal goals for the future?

Chef Kim: In four years, I plan to establish a culinary research lab. I want to study all the ingredients native to Korea and reinterpret traditional recipes in a modern way. I’m proud of receiving a MICHELIN star, and now I’m focusing on preparing for this next step. Alongside YUN, the lab will allow us to develop new dishes using various Korean ingredients. We’ll be gathering extensive data on everything from fermented seafood to kimchi, and this will help us create innovative menus. My goal is to create a space where guests can enjoy comfortable meals while experiencing a wide range of textures and flavors.

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