Amusingly, you have to walk past Maurice’s newsagents before reaching the Parisian-inspired bistro of his son, Olivier. Gallic tradition characterises both the service and the food. Dishes include fork-tender, juicy turbot cooked on the bone, with mushrooms, a light frothy mousseline with a hint of acidity and a white wine sauce. The chef may add the occasional original note, sometimes courtesy of exquisite plating, but he remains a diehard champion of traditional gourmet fare. A well-stocked wine cellar and a splendid choice of cigars and whiskeys round off this enticing portrait.