Behind this name, attributed to many a fine neighbourhood bar, there lies a gem of a bistro, tucked away in central France, in a town known for its ties to a former French president. Chef Sylvain Revelant (former sous-chef to Édouard Loubet and Hélène Darroze, among others) concocts the kind of hearty fare that always goes down a treat. Predominantly local ingredients go into precise, fragrant dishes, eg asparagus, pine buds, meagre, morel mushrooms and shellfish emulsion. The menu changes every 10 days. The atmosphere is friendly and easygoing, and the service comes with a smile.