Peter Som is a modern day renaissance man. Som's first act in fashion saw him gain quick success and accolades with his eponymous label before taking the helm of iconic American design house Bill Blass. During his tenure in fashion, Som's creations were sported by film stars (Scarlett Johansson) and First Ladies (Michelle Obama). However, Som always had a gastronomic gene that ran through his veins. A consummate host at his West Village pad for more than three decades, Som sought to capture this spirit and energy with his next move: a cookbook.
Family Style: Elegant Everyday Recipes Inspired by Home and Heritage takes a look at the people and dishes contributing to Som's life. Ahead of the book's release next week, we chatted with Som about the stories behind the dishes, his dream dinner party guests, and asked him to open his New York address book.
Below, enter Som's world filled with culture-forward culinary delights, and make sure to check out more insights from our Inspectors, chefs, and celebrities here.
Where did the idea for the cookbook come from?
Truly the idea of the book came out of my rediscovering of my grandmother’s recipes. She’s been gone 20 years, but we just recently found a long-lost recipe notebook of hers that nobody knew about. In it, was around 20 years of recipes starting in 1960, each one written meticulously down—from there it became a journey to learn more about her recipes and the stories behind them and I realized that I wanted to tell the story of her and my mom through their love of cooking. It’s not just an immigrant story, but a story about the American dream. Food is powerful—it brings people together, it teaches us about our history, our heritage, and who we are.
Where did the title come from?
Sometimes the most obvious things are right under our noses, and this was the case for Family Style. How we always ate growing up was family style—large plates of food on the table were always the centerpiece of so many wonderful memories growing up, and capturing these moments were the inspiration for the book—and with my design background there’s no harm in everything being presented with a touch of style, am I right? It should never be belabored—it’s all about comforting food that’s easy AND elegant.
What was the first dish you knew you had to include?
I knew my Grandma’s Lemon Chicken had to be in the book. It’s a dish I grew up eating regularly that in the book it's called Famous Lemon Chicken. When I started writing Family Style my mom told me that back in the 1960’s when grandma was developing this recipe the family ate it for a week straight—each time with a bit of alteration and adjustment—just so grandma could perfect the recipe. It stands to reason for her detail-oriented nature—in Hong Kong she was a pharmacist (which was rare for a woman in the 1920’s), so methodical organization was part of who she was.
The recipes in the book are familiar yet distinct. What was the goal with each recipe?
There’s a term in fashion called ‘front of closet’—it's those pieces that you turn to regularly that you always want to wear. That was the goal for Family Style—recipes that you turn to again and again—delicious flavor-packed ingredients resulting in food that’s just as easy to make on a Tuesday night as they are to serve for Saturday company.
What recipe always hits with everyone? What’s the story behind it?
My Sweet and Sour Sticky Ribs with Citrus Gremolata is one that I tested the most times—and I think mostly because all my friends loved it so much. I mean who doesn’t love ribs? I knew I had to include something ‘sweet and sour’ in Family Style because that flavor combination has been a favorite since I could pick up chopsticks. As a kid I’d always request sweet and sour pork when the family was out for dinner. My mom—not a fan of sweet and sour anything (she preferred a bit more elegant fare like steamed fish) would usually relent with a sigh and order it, much to my glee. So, two of my favorite things—finger lickin’ good ribs PLUS sweet and sour along with the brightness of the gremolata—truly a winner.
What’s your favorite drink from the book?
I actually don’t have any drinks in Family Style, but there’s a recipe for my Grandma Ong’s (my grandma on my dad’s side) Chicken Essense a soup that—with one sip—is so restorative and soul-filling it’s like a therapy session and a spa treatment in a bowl.
Dream dinner party guests and menu?
Wanda Sykes, Hugh Grant, Benjamin Franklin, Ali Wong, Thelma Golden, Bill Blass, Elphaba Thropp, Kevin Kwan, Babe Paley, Freddie Mercury, and Peppermint Patty.
I’d make my Crispy Deviled Tea Eggs, Hoisin Honey Roast Chicken, Carrots with Gochujang Honey Butter, and for dessert, my Lychee Lime Pavlova.
What defines New York?
New York! Wow what a place. Three words come to mind: change, energy, and dreams.
There’s a quote from my favorite book A Home at the End of the World by Michael Cunningham which describes New York perfectly:
“It shimmered, that was the first thing I noticed. Its molecules seemed more excited, things shivered and gleamed in a way that made them hard to see. The buildings and streets put out more light than the sky sent down—it all broke up in front of you, so your vision only caught the fragments.”
Where do you like to eat?
Le B: One of my favorite things to do on a random night is to go super early and sit solo at the far end of the bar and have their signature burger and a Hop Sing—a signature cocktail of Chef Angie Mar's that’s essentially a martini kissed with a hint of orange.
What’s the best place?
I’ve lived in the West Village for almost 30 years (!) and I’ve seen the neighborhood change a lot—but one constant is Abington Square. It’s a triangular slice of green right around the corner from my apartment. A tranquil square with mature trees, great benches, and beautiful landscaping that changes with the seasons. On Saturdays there’s a farmers' market. Sometimes all one needs is a shady spot on a bench.
What’s the ideal family friendly spot?
Cafe Cluny in the West Village is an extension of my dining room—it’s the perfect neighborhood spot—easy atmosphere, great food (and drinks) and even better, they stay open all day so you can stop by at 4pm for a glass of wine and a bite if you so choose. From my parents to my goddaughter to everyone in between—it’s always a sure thing. I love the omelet (which I often have for dinner—I do love eggs for dinner), the baby kale Caesar with chicken, and they also do a great tuna burger.What’s the best place for a perfect cocktail?
Lobby Bar at the Chelsea Hotel is one-part gilded age grandeur and two parts downtown cool. A few different rooms are joined together for a fun yet laid-back vibe—I love to grab a couch by the bay window—it’s the perfect place for an afternoon aperitif with friends. And yes, the drinks are always on pointe. The martini comes with a pick-your-own adventure mix of garnishes on the side—and be sure to order a nosh or two from their perfectly curated food menu.
What’s the best place to be seen?
Still after all these years, it’s got to be Indochine. The vibe, the lighting, the mood—for me it epitomizes the downtown mix of glamour, edge and fun—and you’ll always run into someone you know (and someone to gossip about too, haha!)
What’s the best place to hide?
The Fifth Avenue Hotel is chic, sexy and elegant—the perfect staycation. I spent time there finishing FAMILY STYLE. The rooms are perfectly appointed—but there are little spots around this gem of a hotel that beckon you to sit and stay for a while. The exuberant luxe of the Martin Brudnizki interiors are so plush it’s hard to say no. And listen I could stay in those rooms forever but if you want to be with others—a drink at the intimate Portrait Bar downstairs is always there for you. And of course for a meal with all the flourishes, the soaring dining room of Café Carmellini is hard to resist.
What’s the best place for a classic, traditional NY meal?
It’s almost impossible to pick! So I’ll have to pick two. Firstly they might be a newer kid on the block but a meal at Chinatown’s Uncle Lou ticks all the boxes. Classic Cantonese fare done to perfection-with many homestyle dishes on the menu that you can’t always find at other places--like their Steamed Pork Cake with Salted Fish –something my Mom made all the time when I was a kid (and I have a version in my cookbook too!). I always get Rice Noodle Rolls and Honey Walnut Shrimp.
My second pick is Grand Central Oyster Bar—that iconic arched expansive room, the location ( I mean you’re dining under Grand Central for heaven’s sake—how cool is that?) and a vibrant cross section of diners from tourists to commuters and everyone in between. Give me a dozen oysters, a super dry martini and a bowl of new England clam chowder and I’m happy as, well…a clam.
Which museum is your must see in New York?
It might be an obvious choice—but the Metropolitan Museum of Art never fails to enthrall. I think it’s often said that one could get lost in there for hours—and its true! Petrie Court is a spot that I always love—especially on a rainy day. But for a more intimate vibe, the Morgan Library and Museum is a jewel —don’t miss the The East Room—a room where Pierpont Morgan stored his rare books—it’s breathtaking I mean I swear it glows from within. And it’s a rare moment of quiet in the middle of the city.
Where’s your hidden gem in the city?
Casa Next Door is a special little offshoot of Casa Magazines (a wonderful magazine store that’s especially loved by West village locals as well as design and fashion aficionados)—where they’ve now expanded into books. But my favorite spot tucked in the back is their coffee and pastry selection—there’s nothing better than grabbing a latte and sitting outside at of their café tables and watching the world go by.
What is the perfect spot for a date night?
Libertine in the West Village has romance all over it—the moment you step in and you feel like you’re in the Marais—there’s an effortless je ne sais quoi about the patched tile floor, the café tables and the perfect lighting that sets the mood. The food is French bistrot at it’s best—an edited menu where everything’s written on chalkboards—in fact their Oeufs Mayonnaise is so delicious that it inspired my own version in FAMILY STYLE. I usually go early or for for a more chill low-key atmosphere.
Address Book
Abington Square
Hudson St, New York, NY 10014
Casa Next Door
22-A 8th Ave, New York, NY 10014
Café Carmellini
250 5th Ave, New York, NY 10001
Cafe Cluny
284 W 12th St, New York, NY 10014
The Fifth Avenue Hotel (Two MICHELIN Keys)
1 W 28th St, New York, NY 10001
Grand Central Oyster Bar
89 E 42nd St, New York, NY 10017
The Hotel Chelsea (One MICHELIN Key)
222 W 23rd St, New York, NY 10011
Le B
283 W 12th St, New York, NY 10014
Libertine
684 Greenwich St, New York, NY 10014
Indochine
430 Lafayette St, New York, NY 10003
Metropolitan Museum of Art
1000 5th Ave, New York, NY 10028
Uncle Lou
73 Mulberry St, New York, NY 10013
Hero image: Yumi Matsuo / Peter Som
