Considered one of the legends of French cooking, Pierre Gagnaire is known for his ability to surprise, delight, and reinvent—if you have the chance to enjoy a Gagnaire meal, prepare yourself for a ride. The Loire-born chef, who earned his first Three MICHELIN Star designation in 1993, for his eponymous restaurant in Paris, has earned 14 Stars for his restaurants across the globe—Paris, Provence, London, Tokyo, Shanghai, Dubai, and more.
Already a titan among the younger generation of chefs, Gagnaire continues to influence. Last year, he served as Culinary Director for the film The Taste of Things — winner of the Best Director Award at the Cannes Film Festival — and published Une Vie en Cuisine (Keribus Editions), a memoiristic coffee-table book reflecting on his career as a chef.
The 74-year-old has no intention of slowing down, including when it comes to savoring the capital city of his home country. Here, Gagnaire gives MICHELIN an exclusive roundup of his favorite restaurants in Paris, from theatrical dinners to comforting roasts and more.
Paris is known for its fine dining scene. But where do you go when you’re in the mood for French comfort food?
Les Arlots. I really like this place, with its convivial atmosphere and flawless bistro dishes from humble beginnings. The saucisse-purée is my favorite, hands down. This kind of establishment is an essential part of the sort of dining scene we have in Paris.
What about when you’re craving traditional French cuisine staples, like vol-au-vent?
For an irresistible vol-au-vent, I head to Le Café des Ministères. This restaurant is definitely worth a visit, not least for its delicious vol-au-vent. But also because it’s run by a lovely couple of restaurateurs, who are as talented as they are likable. That is something that’s important to me. If I don’t get the welcome I expect upon entering a restaurant, I automatically turn around and walk out.
Paris has several notable restaurants specializing in roasts—do you have any favorites?
For roasts, I go to Elmer. Simon Horwitz used to work at Pierre Gagnaire. He’s now struck out on his own and is doing a great job. He’s an intelligent, sensitive man and his cuisine reflects his personality. Seeing as he’s overly modest, I’m very keen to promote his restaurant.
The French often talk about terroir—the connection between a product and the land from which it comes, and the craftsmanship honoring local heritage. Where can diners go for cuisine that gives a real sense of terroir?
At Origines, just off the Champs-Élysées, you can sample a cuisine that’s full of depth and flavor; both rustic and elegant, it maintains a strong connection to the land. I also love this place on account of the charming chef, who hails from Aveyron and worked with me in Paris and Seoul."
Among the younger generation of MICHELIN-Starred chefs, is there anyone offering a truly exceptional take on fine dining?
With his creative and surprising cuisine, David Toutain [of Restaurant David Toutain in the 7th arrondissement] fits the bill of a MICHELIN-Starred chef. He is entirely devoted to his art, and his success is richly deserved. He inhabits his very own culinary world – to be explored at the earliest opportunity.
Sometimes, fine dining cuisine speaks for itself. Other times, the experience can be almost theatrical. Where do you go when you’re looking for the latter?
La Scène, a Two MICHELIN-Star spot in the heart of the capital’s Golden Triangle. I have a profound respect for Stéphanie Le Quellec and the work she is doing at La Scène. She’s a model for the industry and has a huge amount of talent and a remarkable sense of creativity. Her refined and highly personal cuisine reveals a feminine touch and some truly original ideas. On top of that, she really wears her heart on her sleeve."
In the past decade, the craft cocktail scene in Paris has come a long way. Any favorite for sipping a well-stirred beverage?
"I really like the Andy Wahloo [in the Arts et Métiers neighborhood]. It belongs to Mourad Mazouz, with whom I founded Sketch in London 20 years ago. It’s a fun, quirky place to drink good cocktails in an inviting atmosphere."
Are there any standout spots outside of the capital? Where do you go when you want to get a breath of fresh air from Paris?
Issy Guinguette. During the summer months, I love spending time on the terrace of this restaurant tucked away amid the vineyards in the hills above Issy-les-Moulineaux. You feel like you’re far from Paris and its suburbs; it’s really lovely and relaxing, and a total change of scenery. They also offer a few tasty little dishes if you're peckish.”
Address book:
Pierre Gagnaire
6 Rue Balzac, 75008
Les Arlots
136 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010
Café des Ministères
83 Rue de l'Université, 75007
Elmer
30 Rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 75003
Origines
6 Rue de Ponthieu, 75008
Restaurant David Toutain
29 Rue Surcouf, 75007
La Scène
32 Av. Matignon, 75008
Andy Wahloo
69 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003
Issy Guinguette
113 B Av. de Verdun, 92130 Issy-les-Moulineaux
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Hero Image: Inside the dining room of La Scène (© Benoit Linero)
