The leaves are turning, there’s a slight chill to the morning air and, with the clocks having changed this weekend, the nights are starting to draw in. It’s also that time of year when pumpkins and squashes line the aisles of every supermarket, so throw one in the trolley (or two if you’re also planning on carving a lantern), and celebrate both autumn and Halloween with this warming recipe from Chef Samuel Buckley.
As an advocate of zero waste, Sam gives us not just one recipe but three-recipes-in-one – a clever way to ensure that every part of the squash is utilised and nothing is thrown away.
Cured Squash, Sabayon and Pickled Leaves
Note from the Chef:
This makes a great snack or starter. The gentle cure and steam is a good way to enjoy the natural flavours and textures of the squash without too much disturbance. Crown Prince is definitely my favourite, but this year I have also become fond of Kutsu Black. If you have grown the squash yourself you can pickle the leaves but, if not, any nice pickles you have around will make a great substitute – red cabbage is a good one.
Ingredients
1 whole squash, preferably with leaves included
2 egg yolks
100ml vinegar
50g sugar
Butter
1tsp sour cream
Pumpkin seed oil
Sea salt and pepper
Squash - Method
- Cut the squash in half, scoop out the middle and separate the seeds from the pulp
- Quarter the squash and slice into 1cm pieces
- Sprinkle with sea salt and set aside for 20mins
- Clean the seeds and leave them on a plate on the windowsill to dry for an hour
- Rinse the squash and place in a steamer basket for 10mins or until tender
Chef's Tip: The tip of a knife should pass through but the squash should still be firm
- Add butter to a pan with a little seed oil. When foaming, add the seeds and fry, keeping the pan moving. After around 5mins the seeds should take on a nice golden colour. Once they start popping, remove from the heat and drain into a paper towel
- Transfer to a pestle and mortar and grind until you have a roughly textured crumb. Add salt and any other toasted spices you wish to use
Chef's Tip: Toasted caraway and cumin are a must-try
Sabayon - Method
- To make the sauce, simmer a pan of water
- Crack two egg yolks into a metal bowl, add a splash of vinegar and whisk over the pan of boiling water until the yolks are soft and foamy and have increased 4 times in volume
- Fold in a teaspoon of sour cream
Leaves - Method
- Blanch the leaves in salted water for 2mins or until they become tender. Remove and shock into ice water
- Make a pickle with 200ml water, 100ml vinegar and 50g sugar
- Squeeze water from the leaves and add to a sterilised jar, then pour hot pickle over the top
- They are ready when they have cooled and will last in a sealed jar for months
Squash Spritz
Ingredients:
- Leftover squash skins and pulp
- 2 tsps sugar
Method
- Add the leftover skins and pulp to a sterilised jar with 2 tsps of sugar and top up with filtered water
- Leave on a shelf at room temperature
- After five days the mixture should have fermented and will have a gentle sparkle
- Pass through a sieve and serve over ice, then bottle the rest to enjoy at a later date
Tip from the chef:
This also works well with a hit of dry white vermouth or gin – or both!
Stuffed Stems with Optional Squash Ragu
Note from the Chef:
If you have grown the squash yourself you will be left with a lot of stems. At the restaurant we serve the stems with a squash ragu and a hard, sheep's milk cheese.
Ingredients - Stuffed Stems
Leftover stems
Choice of filling
Salt
Ingredients - Squash Ragu
1 whole squash
1 glass good quality white wine
1 onion
1 clove garlic
Thyme
Sage leaves
1 bay leaf
Hard cheese
Salt and pepper
Stuffed Stems - Method
- The stems are hollow and have coarse hair all over them – use a paring knife to strip this away
- Cut into rigatoni size pieces and blanch in salted water for 20secs before shocking in ice water
- Make a filling such as whipped goat's cheese & chives, egg mayonnaise or horseradish crème fraîche
- Stuff the stems with your choice of filling and enjoy as a snack
Squash Ragu - Method
- Peel and de-seed the squash, then dice as small as possible
- Gently cook a diced onion and garlic clove in butter with some thyme and a bay leaf, then add the squash
- Season with salt and pepper
- Add another knob of butter and a glass of white wine
- Cover with a cartouche and simmer gently until the wine has dried out. Check the squash – if tender, add one more knob of butter and a handful of torn sage leaves, while stirring to emulsify
- Check seasoning and adjust
- Serve over the top of the blanched stems with plenty of grated hard cheese
Hero Image: Jacob Timms
