The counter of ancient buried cedar is an heirloom from the chef’s honoured mentor. On a foundation of technique cultivated in his apprenticeship, he builds unique combinations of foodstuffs and techniques to place his own stamp on his craft. For wanmono, broth is drawn from two types of makombu seaweed, multiplying the flavours. Flame-broiled items are paired with pureed vegetable soup. Ingredients unfamiliar to Japanese cuisine are enthusiastically added to the repertoire. Expressing freedom of spirit, the chef is resplendent in black shirt and bowtie.