In the heart of the old town, this handsome Art Deco building is home to a contemporary-style brasserie with an attractive glazed roof and an imposing Murano chandelier – a pleasant setting in which to peruse a menu packed with enticing options. Using local produce, the chef puts his own spin on the classics: seared salmon gravlax served with a mushroom salad; a fine cut of Tarn pork; a new version of tarte Tatin with Granny Smith opaline. Pure alchemy!