In our regular series, we ask famous chefs and personalities to tell us all about 'their London'. From top tips on where to dine in the city, to their personal haunts ranging from bakeries to book shops, we’ve got the inside track on London’s premier spots from the people who know it best.
Michel Roux is quite simply British restaurant royalty. Having presided over the much-missed Le Gavroche for more than 30 years, he is a symbol of what great Anglo-French cooking is all about. His father and uncle, Albert and Michel Sr, came to the UK and founded Le Gavroche in 1967, changing the course of London’s dining scene. Michel Jr is a part of this Francophone legacy, yet is himself a proper Londoner, one who knows the city inside and out – and whose opinion on all matters culinary is to be taken very seriously. Who better to come to for their London recommendations?
You ran one of London’s quintessential French restaurants. Where do you think are currently the best places for French food in London?
For elegance, style and French classics look no further than The Ritz. It’s very much a destination restaurant and venue for a special occasion. However, for a real taste of France and more specifically Lyon, head to Josephine in Fulham. It’s my favourite place to savour ...no....devour authentic bouchon fare. It gets busy and tables are packed but that just adds to the atmosphere and delight to be had.
The spectacular, French-inspired dining room at The Ritz. © Jack Hardy
Where would you recommend for a night out with friends?
I love Bocca di Lupo; the vibrancy and joy are palpable as soon as you step into this homage to Italy. The menu changes with the seasons and at the moment it’s truffle. Just pop across the road to buy one from Gelupo (which is part of the same restaurant group and they have a lovely Italian deli there) to slice on the veal crudo or on any of the delicious pasta dishes. It is simply the best Italian restaurant in London.Where do you go for a quick bite?
Claude Bosi’s Oyster Bar is on the ground floor of the famous Michelin House. If, like me, you like oysters then look no further. I have been known to stop by for just six oysters and a glass of champagne as a sneaky snack! Alternatively, the plateau de fruits de mer is a full-on feast.
A true feast for any seafood lover. © Claude Bosi's Oyster Bar
Are there any London restaurants you feel a personal connection to?
Caractère. My daughter Emily and son in-law Diego have their own restaurant in Notting Hill. I am so proud of them and what they have created. It has the feel of a neighbourhood haven and delivers food and service of exceptional quality. It’s definitely a hidden gem. They named the restaurant ‘Caractère’ as they both have character in abundance which is truly reflected in their food.
Caractère, run by Michel's daughter and son-in-law. © Andrew Callaghan
How has London changed over the course of your career?
I have lived in London since the ’60s and the change has been immense. Without a doubt, the brothers Michel and Albert Roux started the culinary revolution in the UK. Restaurants and food aside, London’s skyline has changed with the growth in The City and, of course, Canary Wharf. The regeneration of areas such as South Side, Vauxhall and Elephant & Castle can only be good for Londoners.Do you have a favourite pub in London?
The Wigmore, Langham Place. The location is perfect if you want to do a bit of shopping or head to Regent’s Park. The beers and cask ales are poured to perfection which is not always the case in some pubs. The food is creative yet stays true to what you would expect in a pub and the toastie is epic!
A spread of dishes at The Wigmore, including the famous cheese toastie. © The Langham, London
How do you unwind after a day’s work in London?
I enjoy sport, not just participating but also as a spectator. It’s a great way to escape and unwind. You’ll often find me at The Stoop watching Harlequins rugby club or at a football ground when Manchester United are in town.Which is your favourite area of London?
The south. I was born in Kent and grew up in South London. I love it here and would never contemplate moving north! There is so much going on here: great restaurants such as Chez Bruce, Trinity and a recent find, Ploussard in Clapham. The new development of Battersea Power Station is a joy as for so many years it was left empty and in ruins. To see it now full of life and bringing in the crowds is great. The sun always shines in South London!
The beautifully redeveloped Battersea Power Station. © CHUNYIP WONG/iStock
You’re a keen runner and have completed the London Marathon many times. Where do you like to run in London?
I like to keep fit and I used to run marathons as a hobby until my knees gave up! 23 in total and 13 London marathons means I know the course! I still run and enjoy getting up early and heading for the Embankment Southside.Running along The Thames in the city is exhilarating, there is so much to see and take in. None more so than The National Covid Memorial Wall on Albert Embankment. Created in 2021, it is a visual representation of the UK’s catastrophic loss to Covid-19. The wall of hearts with individual messages is 500m long and whether you run or walk past, you cannot help but be moved.
The National Covid Memorial Wall alongside the River Thames. © georgeclerk/iStock
Do you have a favourite London Market?
For me, Borough Market has it all. Great produce, not only from the UK but from all over the world. Likewise, the food on offer is eclectic and multi-ethnic. The place is a food lover’s heaven and just a joy. A true reflection of London.Discover other people's favourite spots in London:
Clare Smyth
Clare Smyth
Address Book
Battersea Power Station, Circus Rd W, Nine Elms, London, SW11 8DDBorough Market, London, SE1 9AL
Ploussard, 97 St John's Rd, London, SW11 1QY
The National Covid Memorial Wall, North Wing, Lambeth Palace Rd, London, SE1 3FT
The Stoop, Langhorn Dr, Twickenham, TW2 7SX
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