“We ate well and cheaply and we drank well and cheaply,” wrote Ernest Hemingway in A Moveable Feast, reminiscing about his most memorable meals in 1920s Paris. You can still find that spirit today in seasonal dishes and refined desserts at Paris bistros, in steaming bowls at crowded counters in Tokyo, in handmade pasta at London markets and in New York delis with sandwiches piled high with meat and mustard. Even in the world’s most expensive, bustling cities, it’s possible to eat extremely well without breaking the bank.
Tokyo
Why go there: Close to the temple in Asakusa, this family-run shop has been serving rice balls since 1954, making it Tokyo’s oldest onigiri specialist. Fillings include pickled plum and salted salmon, each pressed by hand and wrapped in crisp nori. The counter service recalls a traditional sushi-bar setup.
Why go there: For a refined take on ramen in Shinjuku. Each bowl is layered with clam-and-pork broth, black truffle sauce and fragrant dashi oil over thin noodles. The restaurant has seven counter seats and a couple of small tables, and the atmosphere is minimalist and quiet.
Other great places to consider
• Kuhara — For salt-grilled duck.
• Sosakumenkobo NAKIRYU — For spicy dan dan noodles and hearty ramen bowls.
Singapore
Why go there: For plant-based Peranakan-Thai cooking in the heart of Chinatown. Dishes include shiitake mushroom rendang simmered in coconut and spices, or olive rice stir-fried with herbs. Spices, coconut milk and fresh herbs draw directly from the Chinese and Malay traditions that gave Singapore its bold, layered flavors.
Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle
Why go there: For bak chor mee served from a single stall near the Lavender underground station. Thin noodles are tossed with black vinegar, chile and soy, then topped with minced pork, braised mushrooms and crisp dried fish. One of the most affordable Starred restaurants in the world, its queues stretch down the block, which is part of the ritual of eating at this hawker landmark.
Another great place to consider
• Amoy Street Food Centre — For flakey curry pastries at J2 Famous Crispy Curry Puff.
Hong Kong
Why go there: For noodles made the old-fashioned way, with the chef bouncing a giant bamboo pole to knead the dough. The springy egg noodles are served with wontons or beef brisket, a rare taste of a craft disappearing from the city.
Why go there: For Teochew cooking, which is lighter and more delicate than Cantonese. Cold crab dipped in vinegar, soy-braised goose and marinated vegetables highlight clean flavors brought to Hong Kong by Teochew immigrants.
Other great places to consider
• Poo Kee — For Cantonese roast meats carved to order.
• Yat Lok — A One-Star restaurant famous for its roast goose with crisp skin.
Shanghai
Why go there: For homestyle Shanghainese cooking in a modest dining room packed with locals. Signature dishes include red-braised pork belly, glossy with soy and sugar, and quick-fried seasonal greens straight from the wok. Plates are designed for sharing, just as in a family kitchen.
Nanxiang Steamed Bun (Yuyuan Road)
Why go there: For the style of xiao long bao soup dumplings that originated in nearby Nanxiang. Each delicate wrapper holds hot broth and minced pork, best eaten with vinegar and ginger. The shop has been a destination for generations of visitors to Yu Garden.
Other great places to consider
• Ren He Guan (Xuhui) — For braised eel and stir-fried river shrimp.
• Lei Garden (Xuhui) — For Cantonese dim sum and double-boiled soups.
New York
Why go there: For Tokyo-style ramen in Midtown. The creamy tonkotsu broth is simmered for hours and poured over springy noodles, then topped with chashu pork, pickled bamboo and a seasoned egg. The counter seating and open kitchen give it the feel of a Tokyo ramen shop.
Why go there: For pastrami sandwiches stacked high on rye. Open since 1888 on the Lower East Side, Katz’s hand-carves its meat to order, served with mustard and a side of neon-lit history. Its wartime slogan still hangs over the counter: “Send a salami to your boy in the Army.”
Other great places to consider
• Haenyeo (Brooklyn) — For Korean small plates like tteokbokki.
• Cecily (Brooklyn) — For inventive cooking with local produce.
• Sagara (Staten Island) — For Sri Lankan curries and sambols.
London
Why go there: For handmade pasta at Borough Market that keeps Londoners lining up. Pici cacio e pepe comes glossy with cheese and pepper, or tagliarini tossed with Dorset crab and lemon. Fresh pasta is rolled and cut at the counter, served within minutes to an eager crowd.
Why go there: For British cooking that draws on lesser-known cuts and traditional techniques, just across from Spitalfields Market. Dishes include roast bone marrow with parsley salad, deviled kidneys on toast and hearty game pie. In the mornings the bakery turns out loaves and sugar-dusted doughnuts still warm from the oven.
Other great places to consider
• Kricket — For Indian-inspired small plates including the signature Keralan fried chicken.
• The Barbary — For North African dishes cooked over open fire.
• Berenjak — For Persian-style kebabs and small plates.
Paris
Why go there: For seasonal cooking and refined desserts after a stroll through Montmartre. Menus feature dishes like roasted squash with herbs, fresh fish or fruit tarts and mousses from the pastry chef. The compact bistro seats about 36, with a terrace that opens in good weather.
Why go there: For seafood-focused cooking near Rue Saint-Dominique. Menus feature Gallic classics like homemade foie gras, frog legs, onion soup and platters of oysters on ice. Named in tribute to Jean de La Fontaine’s fables, classics of French literature, it’s a small bistro with a zinc bar, closely spaced tables and a relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere.
Other great places to consider
• Campelli — For a creative lunch near the Louvre.
• Mắm From Hanoï — For budget-friendly Vietnamese comfort food.
Copenhagen
Why go there: For seasonal Nordic cooking in an intimate setting in the Latin Quarter on one of the city’s oldest streets. Menus highlight local farms and producers, with an innovative six-option dinner menu featuring creations (also available à la carte) such as pork with celeriac and parsley or seafood brightened with herbs and preserved berries. Street art-style murals of pine cones and seaweed add a playful note to the softly lit dining room.
Why go there: For smørrebrød by day and a tantalizing produce-driven menu by night. The menu includes fish of the day royale topped with trout roe or duck garnished with cherries and trumpet mushrooms. At lunch, the menu highlights Danish staples like herring and seasonal vegetables; in the evening, the format shifts to four courses, with an emphasis on seafood and fresh vegetables. Set in a small basement just off Strøget, the restaurant is a quiet retreat from the busy street above, and one of the more affordable sit-down options in the city center.
Other great places to consider
• Selma — For modern smørrebrød in a bright, casual café.
• Kødbyens Fiskebar — For oysters and fresh fish in the lively Meatpacking District.
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In a bright and casual café, Selma offers an inventive take on traditional Danish cuisine. © Emily Wilson/Selma
