Chef Sal Lamboglia and Chef/owner Andrew Carmellini clearly know what they wanted to do in this kitchen: make excellent Italian (and Italian-American) food with a delicious twist here and surprise ingredient there. The result is a restaurant we would all want to have just around the corner. Great wine, a friendly service team and two floors of comfortable seating make it easy for guests to pile in, night after night. Start with meatballs, a far cry from the generic kind, stuffed with Fontina and braised until tender in a chunky tomato sugo. Pasta here rivals Italy, especially the spaghetti with small, briny clams and spicy ‘njuda crumbles topped with breadcrumbs and parsley. Daily specials are also a delight, as is the simply delicious hazelnut gelato.