He may be one of the most famous chefs on the planet but Gordon Ramsay remains fiercely committed to maintaining the highest of standards at his elegant yet relaxed flagship restaurant. The charming Jean-Claude, who has run the restaurant since day one, oversees a team who get the service just right: yes, it’s polished and professional, but it also has personality.

Head chef – and now co-owner – Matt Abé interprets the philosophy of Ramsay’s style impeccably, meaning that dishes are exquisitely executed, with perfectly judged flavour contrasts, a lightness of touch and an understated edge. The menu features plenty of dishes, like the lobster ravioli, which might be called ‘classic Ramsay’, but there are newer dishes too, such as the roast sweetbread with Jerusalem artichokes.