Inspired by Colonial India’s gymkhana clubs, the interior is full of wonderful detail and plenty of wry touches, from the hunting trophies and ceiling fans to the glass wall lamps and Grandma Sethi’s barometer. If you’re on the ground floor ask for one of the booths but it’s worth a little persistence to ensure you’re seated downstairs, where the beaten brass topped tables, leather banquettes and the dimmest of lighting add to the intimate atmosphere.

There’s an array of dishes inspired by the flavours of North India – don’t procrastinate, just go straight for the 6 courser; included could be wild tiger prawns that show what a charcoal grill can do; kid goat methi keema with a pleasing richness and well-judged spicing; suckling pig vindaloo with complex flavours; or wild muntjac biryani, a triumph of flaky pastry.