The entrance can be a bit tricky to locate within the newly transformed ROW DTLA, so look for the fluttering noren on the first-floor of building M2. Inside, a white cedar counter dominates the softly toned room and ensures that dining here is an intimate and engaging experience with Chef Brandon Hayato Go.
This is the kind of place where celebrants and gourmands come to enjoy a culinary show. Many of the courses begin with ingredients that are artfully arranged in the back kitchen and handed to the chef on trays, then finished before your eyes and presented with detailed explanations.
The chef's nightly menu presents an impressive parade of sashimi along with grilled, fried, steamed and simmered plates. Seafood is sparkling beyond comparison, especially that intense and focused presentation of a hollowed-out snow crab shell filled with seasoned rice, luscious roe and tomalley. Then morsels of tender abalone with small but mighty cubes of abalone gelée as well as a dab of liver sauce deliver flavors that are simultaneously pure and restrained. Finally, everything seems to sparkle in a rice pot of grilled wild yellowtail and daikon, showered with slivered chives and served with pickles.