Botrini's, a midsummer night's dream
On the outskirts of Athens, in the sleepy Chalandri neighbourhood, Botrini’s promises a dining experience with a distinct identity. This inviting, intimate establishment is ensconced in an attractive building that was once a school. From May onwards, tables are set up on the huge palm-shaded terrace, where laurel and lemon trees also grow. In the evening, the atmosphere lends itself to lingering happily over a culinary interlude that continues into the cooling night.Botrini's kitchens are the preserve of a duo of seasoned chefs. Greek-Italian chef-patron Ettore Botrini was born in Corfu and has been involved in haute cuisine for almost 40 years. Trained with Martín Berasategui, he now works alongside the brilliant Nikos Billis, who hails from the Volos region and has also worked in some top establishments, such as Noma. Their cooking style could be described as an ode to the Mediterranean, with subtle flavours and stunning aesthetics: swordfish marinated in bitter orange and seasoned with fish roe, prodigious gamberi rossi in tomato and strawberry water, carbonara "without pasta"… It's hard not to be swept along on this intoxicating culinary journey in which fish and seafood play a major role, accompanied by fruit, vegetables and herbs from Nikos's kitchen garden. The wine list, with its array of 900 labels, also makes for a memorable meal.
CTC, a great chef in the garden
In the Kerameikos area, the restaurant CTC is housed in an attractive turn-of-the-century building, a vestige of the Athens of yesteryear. While the interior has plenty of charm, with its parquet flooring, pretty glass panes, globe light fixture and cane chairs, it is the delightful garden that draws diners in summer. Secluded from the hustle and bustle of the city, this terrace with tables arranged among the trees against a backdrop of lush green walls promises an extraordinary culinary experience.This is the idyllic setting in which Alexandros Tsiotinis, a Greek chef whose references include Astrance and other fine establishments, regales his guests. His sophisticated, overtly Hellenic cuisine is instinctive, following the seasons almost from day to day. That being the case, it comes as no surprise that the menu changes according to the day's catch – fish and seafood are supplied by local fishermen – or deliveries of herbs, vegetables and baby leaf greens sourced from a handful of partners. A few signature dishes, though, are constants, such as cream of corn soup, lobster, truffle espuma and bergamot, or the iconic squid tagliatelle. The wine list, which shows a penchant for biodynamic or natural Greek wines, best sampled as judicious pairings, deserves a special mention.
Hytra, heady heights of fine dining
Between the city centre and the port of Piraeus, Hytra has taken up residence on the top floor of the Stegi Onassis cultural centre, a contemporary building that anchors Athens unequivocally in the modern era. When the weather is fine, the restaurant trades its pleasant designer interior and buzzing kitchens for this gigantic roof terrace complete with a 360° view of Athens, including the Acropolis. As you dine, you can feast your eyes on these sumptuous surroundings, while also staying cool even in the height of the Athenian summer.Previously to be found in the kitchens of Quique Dacosta, Greek chef George Felemegkas now cooks up contemporary Mediterranean cuisine prepared using solely Greek produce from farms around Athens : meat from the Peloponnese, vegetables from market gardeners in Attica, fish from the Aegean, herbs and flowers picked in the scrubland… The three set menus (10 or 15 courses and an eight-course 100% vegetarian menu) change with each season, and are enriched with seasonal produce. The chef has no qualms about reinterpreting some of Greece's great classics, such as tsoureki, a delicious sweet bread that is usually made for Easter but is served here every evening, with extra virgin olive oil and condiments. When it comes to wine, the emphasis is on freshness and lightness, with a fine selection of Greek labels.
Pelagos, a culinary odyssey with a sea view
On the seafront of the Athens Riviera, tucked into a cove with translucent waters, the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel is the stuff of legend. Nestled in an original part of the building, the Pelagos restaurant is no less prestigious. Its interior decor, reminiscent of the dining room of an Atlantic liner with Art Deco touches, is absolutely sumptuous. But it is the terrace, forming a balcony overlooking the sea, that is a magnet for new customers and regulars alike. From this vantage point, the view over the coast is unforgettable, especially at sunset.At work in the open kitchen, in direct contact with diners, the team of around ten is headed up by Luca Piscazzi, a young Roman chef who has worked for the likes of Anne-Sophie Pic in London and La Pergola in Rome. His main source of inspiration is, of course, the sea ! But not only the sea. Having been impressed by the quality of all that the Greek land has to offer since moving to Athens, the chef proposes a series of culinary odysseys, methodically exploring the different regions of his adopted country. Crete, for example, has provided him with a whole season's worth of exceptional produce : snails, dakos salad with carob, lobster and rabbit like yin and yang, tsai Vounou (mountain tea), honey… Straightforward and unpretentious, the dishes are beautifully plated and extremely photogenic – the crockery is made to order by an Athens-based ceramist. More than 450 wines are available in the hotel's cellars.
Soil, from garden to plate
Near the Panathenaic Stadium, the trendy Pangrati neighbourhood is a mine of top-notch restaurants. Opened in 2021, Soil is housed in a magnificent 1920s building with a neo-Classical façade and ironwork features. On entering the premises, the first thing you see is the kitchen, where the team can be glimpsed in action : it is an introduction that speaks volumes about the spirit of the place. The interior of the restaurant is most welcoming with its small, intimate spaces decorated with works of art ; however, in the summer months it is above all the terrace that sets the tone, when tables are laid out in a superb courtyard garden dotted with orange and lemon trees.The local, sustainable and zero-waste food is the work of chef Tasos Mantis, who has worked, most notably, at Hof Van Cleve in Belgium. He maintains that "simplicity is the peak of elegance", but that doesn't mean that subtle and original flavours are off the table. After all, he finds his inspiration primarily in the restaurant's extensive kitchen garden, which he likes to tend, before using the vegetables, fruit, herbs and flowers in his cooking. A cook, for sure, but also a gardener ! The single tasting menu (with a vegetarian or vegan option) changes almost daily according to what is ripe and ready to harvest. The wine list features some fine options and a balance between labels from Greece and abroad.
Spondi, with a French accent
In the Pangrati neighbourhood, on a square whose terraces spring to life whenever the sun comes out, the restaurant Spondi occupies a group of maisonnettes clustered around a Mediterranean garden. In winter, dinner is served inside, at tables set out beneath a magnificent vaulted stone ceiling ; in summer, diners merrily decamp to the two outside areas bedecked with bougainvillaea and secluded by stone walls.For many years, Spondi has been a benchmark in the world of Greek gastronomy. A number of young local talents have cut their teeth here under the watchful eye of French chef Arnaud Bignon, who worked for a time for Éric Fréchon at Épicure. Returning to Spondi after a stint in London, the chef does not hesitate to ship exceptional ingredients over from France – turbot from Brittany and duck from the Vendée, for example. The star of the show is the restaurant's land and sea menu, a real showstopper that will satisfy even the most uncompromising foodie. And don't miss out on the generous cheese trolley – packed with dairy masterpieces from Greece as well as France and elsewhere, it is one of a kind. When it comes to wine, you can rely on the recommendations of the excellent French sommelier.
The Zillers, at the foot of the Acropolis
Right in the centre of Athens, opposite the cathedral, this charming boutique hotel occupies an elegant neo-Classical building. The restaurant The Zillers resides on the enchanting terrace hidden away on the rooftop, set in a verdant roof garden with an unbeatable view of the Acropolis. During dinner, the temples of the Parthenon gradually light up, creating a mood of great mystery.Having clocked up experience working for Pierre Gagnaire and at the restaurant Azurmendi, chef Pavlos Kiriakis took the helm in 2019. His efforts have since been rewarded with a MICHELIN star ! The atmosphere may remain intimate and laid back, but the food is of the highest standard. His delicately presented dishes showcase delightfully subtle flavours : for example, prawn carpaccio with a bergamot jus or turbot with cockles and asparagus with Greek caviar… A really nice touch is the trolley from which you can choose your own extra virgin olive oil for your meal. The pastries are created by Georgios Platinos (previously working with Parisian patisserie Gilles Marchal) and the 100-strong selection of Greek wines is complemented by a few finds from further afield.