With centuries of history and multiple influences from around the world, the cuisine of Homer's homeland boasts an exceptionally rich repertoire. Greek salad, tarama, tzatzíki, grilled octopus, souvlaki, moussaka... Some of these dishes have spread far beyond Greece's borders, enjoying huge international renown. Likewise, local products are now snapped up all over the world: extra virgin olive oil from Crete, olives from Kalamata, dried tomatoes from Santorini, bottarga from Missolonghi, pistachios from Aegina – the list goes on! Traditional taverns continue to keep this heritage alive, with their emphasis on simplicity and generosity. In the Athens of today, however, many gourmet restaurants serve a modernised version of classic Greek cooking. Ever respectful of their ingredients, these establishments are having fun reinterpreting the classics while inventing those of tomorrow. These five restaurants selected by The MICHELIN Guide are sure to surprise you with their contemporary takes on Greek cuisine.
Hervé, When a Meal Becomes a Show
At just 27, Grigoris Kikis has already made a name for himself in Greek gastronomy. Although, it has to be said that he started out very young! He discovered the world of hopsitality at the age of 13, volunteering to work in the kitchens of a local restaurant. After apprenticing with Arnaud Bignon in Athens and then London, he joined the brigade at Geranium in Copenhagen before heading off to Germany, where he was introduced to an array of Asian flavours. Back in Athens, he joined forces with Hervé Pronzato, a Franco-Italian chef already well established in the city, and George Efthimopoulos, an entrepreneur with a passion for the art of entertaining. Together, they opened the restaurant Hervé, a contemporary operation where guests sit at a long counter around an open kitchen. What a pleasure it is for diners to be at the heart of the brigade, in the heat of the action! And the décor? With its subdued lighting and street art, it's a far cry from a traditional tavern.
When it comes to the cooking itself, everything is tinged with the desire to surprise. Inventive and modern, the dishes paint a picture of a gastronomic ethos that is open to the world yet remains faithful to its Hellenic roots. The tasting menu, with its 15 or so small courses, has plenty of surprises in store for diners. It begins with the amuse-bouche: ‘gamberi’ with bisque or cream of corn soup, tarama tart with capers, and crab served in a taco with... kiwi. The meal continues with the same freedom: sea bass refreshed with rosewater, cucumber and nectarine; cod spiced up with salsify, oysters and caviar; roast quail accompanied by blueberries, pumpkin and dates. To finish, diners are treated to mignardises inspired by the sweets of yesteryear. As a sign of their attachment to the Greek terroir, the ingredients are sourced both from the lively Athens market and directly from partner gatherers, fishermen and breeders. Finally, to fuel their kitchens, the three partners also cultivate a vast vegetable garden of their own.
Patio, One-on-One with Greek Gastronomy
On the Athens Riviera, 30 minutes’ drive from the Acropolis, the Patio restaurant offers a unique gastronomic experience that feels both modern and authentic. At the heart of The Margi, a discreetly luxurious boutique hotel set around a vast swimming pool lined with sun loungers, guests are invited to enjoy an intimate tête-à-tête with the cuisine of Panagiotis Giakalis, a dynamic chef who is multiplying his gourmet projects in the Greek capital. Here, he has chosen to keep things resolutely Greek, acknowledging his affiliation with culinary tradition and its rituals, but also having fun reinterpreting its codes. To find inspiration, he doesn't hesitate to call upon his personal history, to evoke the sensations he experienced at the table as a child, to rewrite the ancestral recipes that are still served in the taverns and kafenions of the remotest regions of the country. For him, all cuisine must be aware of its roots!
The sea urchin salad is accompanied by an ouzo emulsion to recreate the unique experience of the Greek aperitif; the cuttlefish from the Aegean is enhanced by a spinach pesto, with the vegetable flavour boosted by the saltiness of fish roe; and the traditional suckling lamb is accompanied by a comforting olive purée, matched with ginger-flavoured aubergines. To close the meal, Panagiotis sets about reviving his childhood memories with a nostalgic and comforting dish of strawberries, vanilla and almonds. To rediscover the natural flavours of his ingredients, the chef, with the help of several market gardeners, also cultivates a huge vegetable garden not far from the restaurant, on the plain of Attica. Quite simply, when it comes to vegetables, herbs and even fruit, the restaurant has become virtually self-sufficient. This virtuous approach has led The MICHELIN Guide to award Patio a Green Star.
Botrini's, a Gastronomic Journey from Corfu to Volos
Located in the heart of the peaceful Chalandri district, Botrini's offers an exciting gastronomic experience. Here, not one but two chefs are in the kitchen, each with his own style and personality. Ettore Botrini, a Greek-Italian who has been involved in haute cuisine for over 40 years, is very proud of his Corfu origins. So much so that he offers many dishes inspired by the Ionian island, which also provides him with a host of ingredients. For his part, Nikos Billis, a brilliant chef from the Volos region of Thessaly, brings his knowledge of how to prepare vegetables from his own garden and his ability to preserve them by canning or lacto-fermentation, as well as his immense knowledge of wine. Accompanied by a thick booklet tracing the origins of the dishes, the superb tasting menu also tells the story of how the chefs have seized on Greek traditions to create their surprising dishes. Their aim? To restore the link between popular cooking and haute cuisine.Served on the vast, palm-shaded terrace, the amuse-bouche is an impeccable smoked eel served with fava, olive oil, parsley and a split pea purée with onions. Immediately afterwards, the swordfish carpaccio, marinated in bitter Corfu oranges and seasoned with fish roe, tantalises the taste buds. As do the prodigious ‘gamberi rossi’ with strawberries and tomato water prepared by Chef Nikos. You must save room for the courgette tian with Kariki cheese from Tinos and summer truffle, a chic tribute to the cuisine of the Cycladic island's shepherds. In the same vein, tsigareli, made with fifteen or so fried wild herbs, is garnished with snails and aniseed-flavoured fennel. The culinary journey ends with almonds and galatopita, a kind of vanilla custard that is as comforting as a childhood memory. In short, an unforgettable experience!
CTC, a Declaration of Love for Local Produce
Alexandros Tsiotinis has opened his restaurant in the Keramikos district, just a stone's throw from the famous cemetery of the same name. CTC is housed in a pretty neoclassical house with warm wooden floors and a large glass roof opening onto a garden, where a large terrace is set up in fine weather. The philosophy of this chef, who has worked in some of France's finest restaurants? The produce comes first. For him, good food is impossible without the best ingredients. And this is even truer for Greek cuisine. Case in point? Greek salad, the famous ‘choriátiki saláta’, literally ‘peasant salad’. Without deliciously juicy tomatoes, this dish will fail! Simplicity is never far away, even in the very best restaurants. Over the last few years, the chef has noticed that all his market gardeners, pickers, breeders and fishermen have redoubled their efforts to supply him with the very best produce. What a treat!
Alexandros composes his local, seasonal and biodiversity-friendly menu according to his deliveries, rather than the other way round. He also takes care to offer dishes that are inspired by local traditions, which he is quick to revisit. His Greek salad, for example, is garnished with distilled tomato water and served as a granita; his lamb chops are accompanied by an original use of aubergines, olives and herbs; his stuffed tomatoes are enhanced by a purée of dolmades, the famous vine leaves. For dessert, he re-enacts a scene from times gone by, when restaurateurs would offer sweets to their customers after paying the bill. His wine list, which includes many natural and biodynamic wines, is also a fine example of a return to basics. Here, you never lose your sense of Greek hospitality.
Tudor Hall, Greek Palace Cuisine
Set on the seventh floor of the King George, a luxury hotel located on Syntagma Square in a building over a hundred years old, the Tudor Hall restaurant offers a fabulous view of the Acropolis from its terrace. In the dining room, the décor is no less grandiose, with its wood panelling, gilding and parquet floors, all accompanied by live classical music. There's no doubt that all the hallmarks of a luxury restaurant are on show, between reassuring classicism and expected refinement. However, the restaurant also demonstrates a certain originality, enlivening the emotions of its guests. This success is down to Executive Chef Asterios Koustoudis, who offers sophisticated cuisine with impeccable technique, without ever denying his Greek identity. As a bonus, he is assisted by Nikos Livadias, a talented chef who comes from a family of bakers and brings a brilliant knowledge of bread-making.It's hard not to be seduced by the amuse-bouche of Skafia pita and galomizithra cheese drizzled with fir tree honey. It's an equal pleasure to try the monkfish with a fennel and green apple purée, as it is the saddle of lamb with bacon, aubergines and romesco sauce flavoured with marjoram. While not all the ingredients come from Greece, a real effort has been made to offer as many as possible. Even for exceptional produce like truffles! The chef doesn’t hesitate to finish and serve certain dishes tableside – a delightful bit of theatre in the grand tradition of palace restaurants. As for the restaurant's sommelier, Evangelos Psofidis, he is considered to be one of the best in the country. He will offer you his favourites, including many Greek wines from small producers that are rare or experimental vintages often made using biodynamic methods. Nothing could be more fitting in the land of Dionysus.
