New York is the fashion capital of the world boasting global icons including Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Vera Wang as some of Manhattan's 'local talent'. However, Genesis House has made it their mission to support the next generation of creative minds with their AAPI Design + Innovation Grant in partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America. In the running for their second year were designers Bach Mai, Kozaburo, and the winner, Olivia Cheng of haute label Dauphinette.
As part of the grant competition, Cheng, along with her fellow designers, traveled to Seoul to enrich the experience and provide greater perspective. "They live in the future and pour an incredible amount of detail into every single aspect of life and culture there," says Cheng of Seoul. "I’ve always believed that discipline creates room for creativity, and I think the time spent in Seoul was a great reminder of that."
For Cheng and Dauphinette, the devil is in the details and the trip proved to be equal parts inspiration and illumination. "I felt like a giddy child," says Cheng with charming glee; "Watching people who have dedicated their lives to a single craft has always made me strangely emotional. I ended up purchasing a bunch of loose mother-of-pearl cutouts, and back in New York I eventually preserved them in resin to make brooches for one of my Genesis House capsule looks."
However, beyond visits to workshops and hidden gems in Seoul, the trip was also rooted in nourishing the designers's souls through gastronomic experiences. "Eatanic Garden at the Josun Palace [Hotel] are very ingredients-focused and every component was well communicated," says Cheng, adding, "the presentation and flow of the meal was breathtaking." Not unlike Cheng's designs for Dauphinette which harness natural elements with a thoughtful, storied, and surrealistic take.
"Initially, I was curious about whether it was possible to make wearable pieces out of real flowers and botanicals," explains Cheng. "It began as an experiment, but now it’s become a core part of our brand identity. Preservation and archival are very important to me." However, for Cheng, it's beyond the shock factor and ingrained into her brand's DNA. "The initial allure needs to be matched with a level of storytelling and commitment to sustainability that I’m dedicated to championing."
Another aspect Cheng is committed to is the confluence between culture, fashion, and cuisine. "I believe that the most authentic compatibility between high fashion and haute cuisine is the obsession with hospitality and in providing an astonishing experience," says Cheng. "Both [are] dedicated to creating something so delightful and otherworldly that it stays in peoples’ minds long after the meal has ended or the runway has finished."
Below, Cheng shares her hidden gems in New York and where she finds inspiration or quiet.
What defines New York?
New York is like a cocktail of people who want to be the best at what they’re pursuing, but with a collective humor and self-awareness about the uncertainty of it all. It’s probably the only place in the world that has a reputation of being both heavily resilient and madly ethereal.
Which museum is your must see in New York?
The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute, of course.
Where’s your hidden gem in the city?
Is it acceptable to say my store Dauphinette in the West Village? In the least biased way possible— our store is exceptionally fun and there’s so much to discover. It’s in a quieter part of the West Village so it really feels like you’re stumbling upon something. Inside you’re able to get all of our signature pieces, but I make it a point to fill the space with equal amounts of one-off creations and my handpicked vintage, so you get the luxury shopping experience but also the thrill of the hunt. I wanted to create the type of store I always dreamed of finding in other cities. It’s a really personal experience and I’m really proud of what we’ve created, so I hope it’s okay to pick it.
What’s the ideal spot for groups (ex. Friends / family)?
Nura in Greenpoint. I could come here every day. I’m happiest with delicious bread, a family style spread, a good cocktail, and happy energy in the air. Nura has all four in abundance. For a brunch with friends or family, it’s so vivacious— the space is filled with really nice sunlight during the day and it feels very freeing and bright. For a group I would typically order their bread basket (maybe two bread baskets) which comes with delicious housemade spreads, a spread of small plates to share, and a cocktail each. It would be impossible to have a bad time.
What’s the best place?
The spa at the Four Seasons downtown. The reflexology massages there are deeply healing.
What is your most memorable dish from Genesis House?
The menu at Genesis House is always changing, but last summer I had the most delicious, savory crusted tofu dish with an incredibly flavorful foam and cooked oats underneath it. It sounds like a strange and unexpected pairing but it was one of the most delicious things I’ve ever eaten.
What sets Genesis House apart from a plating / presentation perspective?
Both the flavors and the presentation are 10/10, but what takes Genesis beyond flavor and aesthetics is the level of service and hospitality. The food speaks for itself, but the staff there take the time to explain each flavor and its cultural relevance in a way that brings so much to the meal and really encourages you to consider your food more carefully.
Where do you go to be seen?
I rarely want to be seen. But if I had to pick, Genesis House. I’ve met a lot of wonderful people there.
What’s the best place to hide?
My apartment or the airport.
What’s the best place for a perfect cocktail?
Hidden Pearl in Williamsburg or Attaboy in LES.
What’s the best place for a classic, traditional NY meal?
Juliana’s in Dumbo for the classic Margherita, then walk 2 minutes and you have three fantastic ice cream shops at your disposal for some dessert.
The Met Costume Institute
1000 5th Ave, New York, NY 10028
Dauphinette
60 Bedford St, New York, NY 10014
Colonie
127 Atlantic Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11201
Nura
46 Norman Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11222
Four Seasons Hotel New York Downtown
27 Barclay St, New York, NY 10007
Genesis House Restaurant
40A 10th Ave, New York, NY 10014
The Hidden Pearl
621 Manhattan Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11222
Attaboy
134 Eldridge St, New York, NY 10002
Juliana’s
19 Old Fulton St, Brooklyn, NY 11201
Hero image: CFDAxGenesisHouse OBU / Olivia Cheng
