MICHELIN Guide Ceremony 4 minutes 21 January 2025

Steirereck in Vienna is Austria's New Three-MICHELIN Star Restaurant

Our Inspectors share their enthusiastic reports on this landmark restaurant.

From now on, this culinary gem in central Vienna is going to attract even more foodies from all over the world. As of today, Steirereck, run jointly by Birgit and Heinz Reitbauer, is Austria's newest Three-Star restaurant and one of only two establishments in Austria to hold Three MICHELIN Stars. With an impressive blend of tradition and innovation, Heinz Reitbauer and Head Chef Michael Bauböck interpret Austrian cuisine at the highest level, an approach that has propelled them into the realm of top chefs. "Today we had lunch with a real wow factor!" says one Inspector. "Steirereck is definitely one of the best restaurants in the world and undoubtedly warrants a trip!" enthuses another, adding: "With its fantastic and extensive selection, the menu is also 'welcoming' in the best sense of the word." During the Inspectors' visits in this editorial year, everything about the restaurant was spot-on.

Heinz Reitbauer and Head Chef Michael Bauböck. © Steirereck im Stadtpark
Heinz Reitbauer and Head Chef Michael Bauböck. © Steirereck im Stadtpark

The Place: A Unique Atmosphere and Impeccable Service

With its multi-facetted mirrored pavilion, the building in the Stadtpark has a striking futuristic look. As you enter, you can see the kitchen through the pass. Inside, the restaurant is bright, modern, and elegant. The clever division of space into different wings creates a relaxed and quiet atmosphere despite the almost 100 seats.

Restaurant Steirereck im Stadtpark in Vienna. © Steirereck im Stadtpark
Restaurant Steirereck im Stadtpark in Vienna. © Steirereck im Stadtpark

The truly first-class service is directed by Birgit Reitbauer, hostess par excellence. "Well-staffed, polite, cordial, and extremely professional" is how our Inspectors unanimously describe their impressions of the service. Sommelier René Antrag, who makes a significant contribution to the overall experience, is described in equally glowing terms. "The wine list is wonderful. With its impressive selection from Austria, as well as great wines from Burgundy and around the world, it will satisfy even the most demanding wine lovers. The recommendations by the glass are also really particular, thoughtful, and occasionally surprising," explains one Inspector after his visit.

The last of many visits - conducted by Inspectors from four nations - to take place in the 2025 editorial year falls on a Wednesday lunchtime in the run-up to Christmas. Even the welcome from numerous employees is fantastic. Our Inspectors eat in pairs. On the day in question, Steirereck is very busy, with an international crowd. Chinese, English, and Italian can be heard from the tables, as well as Austrian dialect. Guests are dressed casually, with the focus here most definitely on the outstanding food. It's wonderful to see everyone enjoying themselves!

Our Inspectors have described in detail five dishes they ate. Read on to find out what they made of them.

The bread trolley with the restaurant's "bread sommelier". © Steirereck im Stadtpark
The bread trolley with the restaurant's "bread sommelier". © Steirereck im Stadtpark

The Dishes

AMUSE-BOUCHES & BREAD TROLLEY

Various and highly diverse finger food items are served as a precursor to the meal proper. The cold carrot essence, the stuffed physalis, and the tartelette with trout tartare, Jerusalem artichoke, and a citrus salad are superb.

The house bread trolley all but eclipses everything else; it is almost world-famous in the highest echelons of the gastronomic scene. The unbelievable variety of top-quality bread is presented by a "bread sommelier". The juicy and tasty Blunzenbrot (bread baked with black pudding) is a mainstay on the trolley. On this visit, our Inspectors also try the sourdough farmhouse bread, chorizo and chili bread, Parmesan and rocket bread, and sourdough bread with linseed. The bread is served plainly and simply, with the modest accompaniments of first-class butter and finely ground mountain salt. What more could you ask for?

CHAR in Beeswax with Yellow Beetroot, Pollen & Cream. © Steirereck im Stadtpark
CHAR in Beeswax with Yellow Beetroot, Pollen & Cream. © Steirereck im Stadtpark

CHAR in Beeswax with Yellow Beetroot, Pollen & Cream

This is one of the house classics and a truly outstanding dish. While the amuse-bouches are being served, the team brings out a raw char fillet, which is doused in hot beeswax tableside. The fish cooks gently in the wax for nine minutes, before being taken back to the kitchen to be plated up. The result is exceptional: the char is absolutely top-notch, complemented by a minimalist garnish of marinated yellow beetroot, jellied beetroot juice, and sour cream. "Caviar pollen" made from dried beetroot juice adds a pleasant crunch. A very precise and fresh dish that is quite simply an excellent starter!

VEAL LIGHTS Ragout with Chive Dumplings & Marjoram. © Le Guide MICHELIN
VEAL LIGHTS Ragout with Chive Dumplings & Marjoram. © Le Guide MICHELIN

VEAL LIGHTS Ragout with Chive Dumplings & Marjoram

Kalbsbeuschel is a classic combination of calf's heart and lung with onions, carrots, gherkins, capers, anchovies, cream, and mustard. Here it has balanced acidity, a subtle, extremely harmonious hint of marjoram, and is cooked to perfection. The consistency is creamy, the color brownish. It is served with a dumpling that is perfectly "imperfect"; as it should be, the texture is fluffy, the small bread cubes have almost retained their shape, the binding is light, and the consistency airy. The dumpling is sprinkled with freshly chopped chives. A really terrific dish that may seem simple at first glance, but the quality is second to none.

ARTICHOKES with Armenian Cucumber, Lemon Balm & Bergamot

This intermediate course is almost summery in appearance. The young artichoke is halved and braised in thistle oil and Madeira. It is served with a salad of fresh spinach, cucumber, and a variety of mini cherry tomatoes along with another salad of finely sliced Armenian cucumber. The dish comes with a buttery thistle and Madeira juice. It is characterized by the typical aroma of artichokes, with which the opulence and light sweetness of the Madeira contrast perfectly to round off the whole dish harmoniously. Unique!

PEPPER CHICKEN with Butternockerl (dumplings), Fennel & Meadow Chervil. © Steirereck im Stadtpark
PEPPER CHICKEN with Butternockerl (dumplings), Fennel & Meadow Chervil. © Steirereck im Stadtpark

PEPPER CHICKEN with Butternockerl (Dumplings), Fennel & Meadow Chervil

The poussin is served in different ways: the breast perfectly cooked and extremely succulent and tender, with crispy skin and flavored with a paprika whey powder; the leg braised in red, mildly fruity, yet nuanced pointed pepper jus and accompanied by a cockscomb cooked until tender. The poussin comes with a pointed pepper stuffed with physalis and spiced fennel, topped with sour cream and crispy strips of chicken skin, as well as fluffy, melt-in-the-mouth Butternockerl tossed in a chervil cream and garnished with fresh chervil and other herbs. Full of complex aromas, it is nevertheless an accessible, perfectly balanced dish. Fantastic!

QUINCE with Butterzopf, Saffron & Lemon.  © Steirereck im Stadtpark
QUINCE with Butterzopf, Saffron & Lemon. © Steirereck im Stadtpark

QUINCE with Butterzopf, Saffron & Lemon

The dessert brings with it the wonderful smell of quince to the table. A piece of plaited bread baked to a golden brown (similar to pain perdu) is topped with braised quince caramelized with saffron and lemon. The addition of roasted nuts spiced with cardamom and cinnamon lends the dish a pleasing crunch. At your table, the server adds vanilla whipped cream and a dollop of melting nut butter ice cream. Accompanied by a lemon and saffron sauce, this wonderful autumn dessert makes for a harmonious finale.

And to round off your meal, to go with your espresso, they serve seasonal Vanillekipferl (vanilla crescent-shaped pastries) from the trolley. These are lifted out of their icing sugar nest by a member of the team, brushed off, and freshly dusted again.

Vanillekipferl being brushed off. © Le Guide MICHELIN
Vanillekipferl being brushed off. © Le Guide MICHELIN

Tips From Our Inspectors:

Bread Trolley
"The breads all come from various bakeries and you can also purchase them in the bakeries. Just ask the bread sommelier for details."

Cheese Trolley
"Don't miss the magnificent cheese trolley, where you can find treasures such as Époisses at three different stages of ripeness."

Lunch
"The value for money at lunchtime, a four-course set menu at €155, is unbeatable."

The editorial team reserves the right to change individual details of the visit in order to protect the anonymity of our Inspectors.



Hero Image: Caviar and lentils with banana and bacon, Heinz and Birgit Reitbauer. © Steirereck im Stadtpark

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