Bağarası
As a leading representative of Bodrum’s local cuisine, Bitez Bağarası is a remarkable establishment created by Ümmühan Girgin over more than two decades of dedication. She was a pioneer in the region, establishing Bağarası at a time when both Bitez and the presence of female chefs or managers were virtually unknown. Spreading by word of mouth and becoming famous, Girgin’s dishes reflect the ingredients and cuisine of the region, but she is not afraid to innovate, following the spirit of the local area. Years later, with his son Mustafa trained in gastronomy, the Girgins have further elevated the restaurant’s reputation, working side by side as two chefs in the same kitchen. Indeed, Bağarası’s cuisine deserves the reputation: Firstly, they do not make the same food every day. They prepare what they find fresh and high-grade in the market and what their instincts tell them goes together. As a result, the dishes with olive oil and the starters are different and deeply familiar at the same. What creates this feeling is that they are faithful to the culinary codes even if they use unconventional ingredients. For example, they might replace the sour cherry with blueberries in a traditional olive oil dish, but they can still maintain the balance between the acidity of the dish and sweetness of the fruit. Thanks to their expertise, the chefs can offer their customers more than just a simple mezze menu.
While the restaurant’s diverse selection of cold dishes often steals the spotlight, it doesn’t mean you won’t find fresh seafood, crispy mantı (Turkish style dumpling), or tender liver on the menu daily. Apart from these dishes, one dish that truly stands out and deserves special attention is meat on skewers from the branches of the mastic tree. This unique creation is Bağarası’s invention, and the soft beef threaded through the mastic branches is invaluable. However, due to the limited availability of the branches, you may not always be able to order this dish. So, it’s better to order it in advance!
When you eat and drink in the garden covered with vines and various fruit trees, you can truly feel that you are on the Aegean coast. Bağarası is a place where you can relax and enjoy yourself because it’s a family-run business where you’ll feel very comfortable, also the values it represents and the cuisine it reflects are precious. The vines adorning the garden are more than just a nod to Turkish rakı: While Turkish rakı might be the first beverage that comes to mind, Bağarası has an impressive selection of wines too. Ümmühan Girgin says it was vital for them to serve good wine in their restaurant from the beginning. The Girgins have long been dedicated to wine education, offering tastings, pairing sessions, and cooking classes. This year, they have teamed up with a local winery to create a signature wine series bearing their name. When you visit Bağarası, you can taste this range, made from Indigenous grapes such as Hasandede, Narince, and Emir.
Dereköy Lokantası
Dereköy Lokantası, a chef-driven restaurant by Zişan Altıncaba, is one of those places in Bodrum that has been attracting regulars for several years. Opening every summer with a new menu, Dereköy Lokantası reflects a cuisine that is as personal as it is regional, harmonizing the chef’s roots with the flavors of the Aegean. From traditional offal such as brain and tripe to dishes such as fried mussels and octopus with keşkek, the menu combines chef Altıncaba’s culinary heritage from Konya and the Caucasus with seafood, herbs, fruits, and olive oil from Bodrum. However, this diversity never becomes arbitrary: The menu is limited and precise, inspired by local recipes, and is created around the ingredients available each summer.
The restaurant's atmosphere mirrors this care: Set in a peaceful garden, the place is decorated with simple colors and subtle but eye-catching details, from the crockery to the linens. The restaurant is as simple and relaxing as the dishes created by the chef, who uses a few simple ingredients to emphasize the flavor of the ingredient.
Dereköy Lokantası’s wine selection focuses on old vineyards, whether local or foreign. Chef Altıncaba explains that she pays attention to not only how the wines pair with her dishes but also where the grapes come from. She also takes special care in offering wines that might be difficult for customers to find elsewhere. Their special wines made in collaboration with a local winery are also available at the restaurant. Dereköy Lokantası is only open in the summer and for dinner service, where you can also sit at the bar and enjoy your meal with a cocktail.
Kurul Bitez
One of Bodrum’s leading restaurants reflecting different local cuisines, Kurul Bitez offers the diversity of Antep cuisine. In a large garden, chef Kemal Karataş -also from Gaziantep- serves traditional dishes such as small lahmacun (flatbread topped with minced meat), stuffed meatballs, aubergine kebab or “alinazik” kebab. Additionally, the menu features specialties such as Dert Alan/“Kebab that Blow Away the Troubles.”When you think of Bodrum, olive oil and seafood might be the first things that come to mind. However, the irresistible allure of Türkiye’s leading gastronomic city, Antep’s rich cuisine, is also making its mark. Kurul Bitez is one of the few ocakbaşı restaurants in Bodrum that successfully represents this traditional cuisine. Chef Karataş is such a talented chef for kebab making, but also he’s enhancing the menu with a variety of starters such as pitas, crispy pickles, baked Antep cheese, and delicious salads. This makes Kurul Bitez more than just a “good kebab spot”: It is a place where you can have a “pita with four cheeses” in addition to a classic minced meat pita. The restaurant is not closed to innovation while staying true to its roots.
As a result of this innovative point of view, the place’s itself stands as a “gallery” for various painters: On the walls, you can see many works of the artists. Accompanying this nuanced style, the trees in the garden are the most beautiful ornament of Kurul Bitez’s ambiance, created with warm colors but without straining the eyes. The tables where ice-cold Turkish rakı glasses are clinking, combined with the southern warmth wafting through the greenery, create a delightful setting and make Bodrum even more enjoyable. But Kurul Bitez is open in all four seasons, not just in the summer. The restaurant is frequented by Bodrum residents in both summer and winter; though along with the menu, the restaurant cares to serve changing flavors too. Chef Karataş notes that they get a lot of attention from the regulars, especially when they make local specialties such as şiveydiz (an Antep style meat stew with garlic and chickpea) and loquat kebab. He is dedicated to promoting the local values of Antep cuisine, which they aim to represent in Bodrum.
Kurul Bitez has an extensive selection of local wines, especially well-suited for pairing with meat dishes. So, if you prefer wine to Turkish rakı, you’ll find plenty of excellent options here. Unlike a traditional ocakbaşı, Kurul Bitez also serves very successful cocktails, setting it apart from the rest. The signature cocktails like “Dağlar Kızı” with purple basil, “Kırkağaç” with melon, and “Bombacı Niyazi” with chili are fun and flavorful.
With cocktails, starters, lahmacuns, and kebabs on the menu, it’s easy to predict that you won’t leave Kurul Bitez with a light stomach. However, be sure to save room for dessert because Kemal Karataş’s “Chef’s Pistachio Wrap,” which he prepares by himself, might be the best baklava in Bodrum!
Illustration Image: Kurul Bitez, Exterior @ Merin Sever
