Chef/owner Jungsik Yim’s eponymous restaurant has two outlets: Seoul (Two MICHELIN Stars) and New York, which opened in TriBeCa in 2011. Within one year of its opening, the restaurant was awarded One MICHELIN Star, which was quickly followed up by Two MICHELIN Stars in 2013. Since then, it has remained steady, but more than a decade later, Jungsik New York has now earned Three MICHELIN Stars, becoming the first Korean restaurant in the United States to join the elite ranks (there are only 13 other Three Star restaurants in the U.S.).
While the intimate dining room remains unchanged and is just as sparely elegant as ever with dark flooring and rich wood-lined walls complemented by ivory banquettes, there is “something surprising and interesting that has occurred,” shares one MICHELIN Inspector. “The execution has been elevated, product quality and sauce work are excellent, presentations are stimulating, and the flavors are refined, clear, and harmonious. It’s very impressive.”
“This meal was a thrilling experience for me,” shares another Inspector. “Every now and then, there's a very sophisticated experience that impresses from start to finish and Jungsik has reached that heady level.”
Arrival
Jungsik’s elegance was noticed from the very beginning. “From the moment we stepped in to the moment we left, it was a sophisticated experience.” “The dining room bears that perfectly downtown nexus of low-key yet elegant; with its dark and light color scheme and intimate proportions.
The Team
The Inspectors took note of the “sharply dressed, attentive, discreet, and unobtrusive team,” adding “the service here is perfectly pitched and they are a credit to the business.”
“The service here reaches that perfect balance of professionalism and friendliness. It is an impressive experience.”
“Many staff made a point to check in and, started up conversation; it was clear that they were skilled at putting their guests at ease and making them feel welcomed.”
The Cooking
Jungsik’s concept remains largely the same as it was upon opening: a single tasting menu with a focus on contemporary Korean cuisine.
The Dishes Tasted
Banchan
“The array of opening bites traditionally served at Korean restaurants was elegantly elevated here. Each bite was a work of art, and each was distinctly singular. This course made the palate come alive and set a high bar and tone for the meal. The production of each jewel-like item was impressive. Temperatures were correct; flavors were highly enjoyable; and the array of textures was stimulating.
Langoustine, squid ink nurungji, smoked emulsion
“The Norwegian langoustine did not disappoint. It was highly original and memorable. The pale pink exterior protected the perfectly cooked meat. Eating each piece revealed the natural sweet qualities of this prime ingredient. The hot pot was the same black color of the rice and kept the serving nice and hot. The shallow amount of rice was perfectly chewy, nutty and even contained a few crispy grainsThe squid ink also delivered a convincing flavor, as did the smoky emulsion.”
Octopus gochujang aioli
“I am not exaggerating when I say this was easily some of the best octopus I have eaten. First, it was wonderfully hot. The crispy exterior was so light and totally delicious. The texture cut like butter and inside was so soft and tender, it was remarkable. The seasoning was amazing too. The aioli could have passed as being a mole. The smooth unctuous qualities and roasted spice hit the mark perfectly.”
Arctic char, cured and dry-aged, perilla emulsion
“The square of char was outstanding. The confit-style fish was so moist, with just an edge of cured sweetness in the flavor. The skin has been made super crispy using the binchotan and the flavor was mesmerizing. The emulsion didn't disappoint at all, there was perfect acidity, juicy roe and the drops of perilla oil completed the sauce really well. There was nothing missing and nothing to improve upon.”
Striped Jack
“Slivers of raw fish twirled into a near, small mound; topped with excellent caviar and dressed with a refreshing, chilled fish bone broth and herbed oil. Delicious; excellent product, and impressive sauce work.”
Dolhareubang
This kitchen’s creativity is especially apparent in this dessert, designed to mimic the rock sculptures found on Jeju Island. “It was great to see their playful edge and creative style still holding constant. The components were nicely executed, and the myriad of techniques used were spot on.”
Conclusion
With one Inspector eagerly awaiting their next visit, another shared, “Jungsik has always been impressive and special but there was something so meticulous to the meal; a hyper refinement of flavor and textures creating a meal that was far from monotonous and even at times playful.”
Hero image: Dan Ahn / Jungsik
Thumb image: Jungsik New York / Dolhareubang