Highlights from this month's must-eats: A new chef at one-Michelin-starred The Kitchen at Bacchanalia, Summerhouse, a plush new spot at far flung Seletar and unforgettable strips of tuna belly that has us hankering for more.
Hand-Dived Scallops at The Kitchen at Bacchanalia
Chef Ivan Brehm has departed from one-Michelin-starred The Kitchen at Bacchanalia and in his place is Luke Armstrong, an Australian chef whose CV shines with the lustre of Michelin-starred restaurants like Oud Sluis, Ledbury and Pied a Terre. His signature flavours are bold and citrusy, while allowing the natural flavours of meats and seafood to shine through. One such example is the hand-dived scallop, the first dish of his 8-course tasting menu. It’s essentially a scallop ceviche dressed with black truffle, yuzu and soy dressing on a scallop shell, offset by the pleasing presence of crème fraiche. 39 Hong Kong Street. Book Here.
Chef Ivan Brehm has departed from one-Michelin-starred The Kitchen at Bacchanalia and in his place is Luke Armstrong, an Australian chef whose CV shines with the lustre of Michelin-starred restaurants like Oud Sluis, Ledbury and Pied a Terre. His signature flavours are bold and citrusy, while allowing the natural flavours of meats and seafood to shine through. One such example is the hand-dived scallop, the first dish of his 8-course tasting menu. It’s essentially a scallop ceviche dressed with black truffle, yuzu and soy dressing on a scallop shell, offset by the pleasing presence of crème fraiche. 39 Hong Kong Street. Book Here.
Toro Caviar at Akira Back
Plush hotel chain JW Marriott has taken over the Southbeach Hotel and announced a slew of restaurants and bars to draw in the crowds. Among them is Akira Back, a modern Asian restaurant with big Japanese, Korean and American influences. The restaurant pushes its tuna pizza – a thin pizza topped with ponzu and truffle oil with a crispy tortilla base but it is the toro caviar dish that trumps. Here, thin strips of decadent tuna belly, seasoned lightly with kochujang miso and topped with oscietra caviar is served on a petite box of ice. The entire dish is an umami bomb that explodes with fatty pleasure, showing that the best flavours of various culinary cultures can come together to make a dish sing. 30 Beach Rd, 6818 1888.
Plush hotel chain JW Marriott has taken over the Southbeach Hotel and announced a slew of restaurants and bars to draw in the crowds. Among them is Akira Back, a modern Asian restaurant with big Japanese, Korean and American influences. The restaurant pushes its tuna pizza – a thin pizza topped with ponzu and truffle oil with a crispy tortilla base but it is the toro caviar dish that trumps. Here, thin strips of decadent tuna belly, seasoned lightly with kochujang miso and topped with oscietra caviar is served on a petite box of ice. The entire dish is an umami bomb that explodes with fatty pleasure, showing that the best flavours of various culinary cultures can come together to make a dish sing. 30 Beach Rd, 6818 1888.
Caramelised Onion, 20-months aged Grana Padano at Foo’d
Imagine this: A sweet caramelised onion encased in a crispy pastry shell topped with a quenelle of gelato made with 20-month aged Grana Padano. This divine combination is at once cool yet warm, sweet, yet savoury. It’s the first course at Foo’d, a two-month-old modern Italian restaurant by Davide Oldani – the man behind one-Michelin-starred restaurant D'O on the outskirts of Milan. It’s the perfect way for him to showcase his philosophy, that of using ordinary ingredients and elevating them to fine dining standards. Other dishes worth a try include the risotto which is done al dente the way the Milanese love it. In fact, this texture is so prized that the carnaroli rice is – a variety grown in the north of Italy is aged for nearly two years – which gives a chewier texture. #01-01, 11 Empress Place, 6385 5588
Imagine this: A sweet caramelised onion encased in a crispy pastry shell topped with a quenelle of gelato made with 20-month aged Grana Padano. This divine combination is at once cool yet warm, sweet, yet savoury. It’s the first course at Foo’d, a two-month-old modern Italian restaurant by Davide Oldani – the man behind one-Michelin-starred restaurant D'O on the outskirts of Milan. It’s the perfect way for him to showcase his philosophy, that of using ordinary ingredients and elevating them to fine dining standards. Other dishes worth a try include the risotto which is done al dente the way the Milanese love it. In fact, this texture is so prized that the carnaroli rice is – a variety grown in the north of Italy is aged for nearly two years – which gives a chewier texture. #01-01, 11 Empress Place, 6385 5588
Uni Pasta at The Summerhouse
At just 27 years of age, chef Florian Ridder – formerly from one-Michelin-starred Alma by Juan Amador – is already showing his creativity in leaps and bounds at new restaurant The Summerhouse. The establishment's sustainable approach means you’ll find fresh kelong prawns and grouper on The Collective Farming menu, sprinkled with burnt lemon powder or pan-fried with belachan and paired with orange blossom hollandaise sauce. But the stand-out dish here is the Uni Pasta that showcases the crowd-pleaser ingredient in different ways. Japanese uni is blended with an uni-soy sauce and some chilli padi to make a luscious ice cream, while ikura and deep-fried vermicelli enhance the umami notes and textures of this dish. 3 Park Lane, 6262 1063.
At just 27 years of age, chef Florian Ridder – formerly from one-Michelin-starred Alma by Juan Amador – is already showing his creativity in leaps and bounds at new restaurant The Summerhouse. The establishment's sustainable approach means you’ll find fresh kelong prawns and grouper on The Collective Farming menu, sprinkled with burnt lemon powder or pan-fried with belachan and paired with orange blossom hollandaise sauce. But the stand-out dish here is the Uni Pasta that showcases the crowd-pleaser ingredient in different ways. Japanese uni is blended with an uni-soy sauce and some chilli padi to make a luscious ice cream, while ikura and deep-fried vermicelli enhance the umami notes and textures of this dish. 3 Park Lane, 6262 1063.
Carabinero Prawns and Konbu Mee at Po
Po by mod-Sin pioneer chef Willin Low is the latest restaurant to have a go at elevating hawker food. Low is no stranger to putting fancy spins on local fare, and he heads the kitchen here together with executive chef William Lim from Violet Oon’s National Kitchen. The signature dish here is the popiah platter, where diners create their own fresh rolls with skins from family-run popiah skin maker Kway Guan Huat Joo Chiat Popiah & Kueh Pie Tee. But what leaves an impression is the carabinero prawns and konbu mee, a delicious interpretation of Hokkien char mee (fried prawn noodles). Lim uses whole baby prawns instead of prawn heads for his stock, so there’s no residual bitterness from the head juices. Instead, the dish delivers just the right notes of umami punctuated by sweetness. It’s meant for sharing, but we think this is worth being called a hoarder for. 320 Havelock Road, 6828 0007.
Coconut with Laksa Leaf Ice Cream at Cheek by Jowl
If you fancy yourself an adventurous eater when it comes to challenging dessert creations then you might’ve just found your match at Cheek by Jowl. Chef Rishi Naleendra and his all-Singaporean culinary team has created a dessert that showcases the unapologetic flavour and fragrance of laksa leaves. It’s almost like a cross between local favourite cendol and a tangy southeast Asian-style salad. Start with the creamy coconut semifreddo if you’d just like to have a little taste first, then incorporate the laksa leaf ice cream to challenge yourself. If that’s still palatable, go for gold and scoop up the green chilli sauce, the deep fried crispy laksa leaf, the chopped crunchy peanuts and the fat globules of pomelo that helps to round off the dish’s divergent flavours. 21 Boon Tat Street, 6221 1911.
If you fancy yourself an adventurous eater when it comes to challenging dessert creations then you might’ve just found your match at Cheek by Jowl. Chef Rishi Naleendra and his all-Singaporean culinary team has created a dessert that showcases the unapologetic flavour and fragrance of laksa leaves. It’s almost like a cross between local favourite cendol and a tangy southeast Asian-style salad. Start with the creamy coconut semifreddo if you’d just like to have a little taste first, then incorporate the laksa leaf ice cream to challenge yourself. If that’s still palatable, go for gold and scoop up the green chilli sauce, the deep fried crispy laksa leaf, the chopped crunchy peanuts and the fat globules of pomelo that helps to round off the dish’s divergent flavours. 21 Boon Tat Street, 6221 1911.
Fried Artichoke & Ricotta at Moosehead Kitchen-Bar
Of all the ways to prepare artichoke, (steamed, stuffed, grilled), frying it could just be the tastiest – especially when sprinkled with togarashi and served with ricotta. This dish is available as part of Moosehead’s new menu, and despite being simple comfort fare, the chefs still make sure the flavours and textures are balanced. The ricotta for instance, is made in-house and contrasts beautifully with the crispy coating of the artichokes. 110 Telok Ayer Street, 6636 8055.
Of all the ways to prepare artichoke, (steamed, stuffed, grilled), frying it could just be the tastiest – especially when sprinkled with togarashi and served with ricotta. This dish is available as part of Moosehead’s new menu, and despite being simple comfort fare, the chefs still make sure the flavours and textures are balanced. The ricotta for instance, is made in-house and contrasts beautifully with the crispy coating of the artichokes. 110 Telok Ayer Street, 6636 8055.
Fettuccine Nere alla Polpa di Granchio at Acqua E Farina
Focusing on traditional Italian food where portions are hearty more than pretty, Acqua E Farina is a nice change from restaurants more concerned about their plating than what’s actually on the plate. Co-founders and executive chefs Roberto Galbiati and Antonio Manetto met while working with the Da Paolo Group, and bring with them the flavours of north and south Italy respectively. A stand-out is a steamy plate of house-made squid ink pasta by Galbiati, whose style of creamy pasta is a perfect rendition of how the Italians enjoy it up North. Fresh tomatoes from Italy are cooked down with a dash of cream to create a coral pink sauce that coats the fettuccine. Mixed into this are generous pieces of fresh Sri Lankan crab meat hand-picked daily by chef. 400 Upper Bukit Timah, Road Rail Mall, 6462 0926.
Focusing on traditional Italian food where portions are hearty more than pretty, Acqua E Farina is a nice change from restaurants more concerned about their plating than what’s actually on the plate. Co-founders and executive chefs Roberto Galbiati and Antonio Manetto met while working with the Da Paolo Group, and bring with them the flavours of north and south Italy respectively. A stand-out is a steamy plate of house-made squid ink pasta by Galbiati, whose style of creamy pasta is a perfect rendition of how the Italians enjoy it up North. Fresh tomatoes from Italy are cooked down with a dash of cream to create a coral pink sauce that coats the fettuccine. Mixed into this are generous pieces of fresh Sri Lankan crab meat hand-picked daily by chef. 400 Upper Bukit Timah, Road Rail Mall, 6462 0926.
Chicken Fideua at Pim Pam by FOC
Think Spanish food and paella, tapas and churros comes to mind. Not if newly opened all day dining restaurant Pim Pam can help it. The gastro-bodega has introduced its chicken fideua – a Catalan dish that’s similar to a paella, except it’s made with thin wheat noodles that might remind local diners of bee hoon if not for its distinct Spanish flavour. At Pim Pam though, the noodles are cooked and served “a la llauna” – spread out thin over a rectangular pan and heated until the bottom-most noodles are crispy and slightly caramelised. Only one version of the fideua is available but those who love the idea of crispy goodness can choose from three paellas also served “a la llauna”: traditional (with squid and scampi), squid ink with cuttlefish and prawns as well as the pork and scallop version. #01-29 Claymore Connect, 6100 4242.
Think Spanish food and paella, tapas and churros comes to mind. Not if newly opened all day dining restaurant Pim Pam can help it. The gastro-bodega has introduced its chicken fideua – a Catalan dish that’s similar to a paella, except it’s made with thin wheat noodles that might remind local diners of bee hoon if not for its distinct Spanish flavour. At Pim Pam though, the noodles are cooked and served “a la llauna” – spread out thin over a rectangular pan and heated until the bottom-most noodles are crispy and slightly caramelised. Only one version of the fideua is available but those who love the idea of crispy goodness can choose from three paellas also served “a la llauna”: traditional (with squid and scampi), squid ink with cuttlefish and prawns as well as the pork and scallop version. #01-29 Claymore Connect, 6100 4242.
Wagyu Tobanyaki at Kanda Wadatsumi
Not many restaurants in Singapore can boast being partners with an entire agricultural organisation but Kanda Wadatsumi, a low-key Japanese restaurant on Tras Street is one of them. The 50-seater spot has the backing of the Japan Fisheries Association as well as the network to get in some of the best Japanese produce. One such is seen in the Wagyu Tobanyaki dish where fat strips of succulent wagyu are accompanied with beansprouts and mushrooms which arrive sizzling on a ceramic plate. This method of cooking is perfect for fatty cuts of meat as the heat that emanates from a ceramic plate is gentle and lasts longer as compared to a metal hot plate. The result? Meat that is caramelised on the outside, tender on the inside and bursts with juices when bitten into. 50 Tras Street, 6221 6264.
Not many restaurants in Singapore can boast being partners with an entire agricultural organisation but Kanda Wadatsumi, a low-key Japanese restaurant on Tras Street is one of them. The 50-seater spot has the backing of the Japan Fisheries Association as well as the network to get in some of the best Japanese produce. One such is seen in the Wagyu Tobanyaki dish where fat strips of succulent wagyu are accompanied with beansprouts and mushrooms which arrive sizzling on a ceramic plate. This method of cooking is perfect for fatty cuts of meat as the heat that emanates from a ceramic plate is gentle and lasts longer as compared to a metal hot plate. The result? Meat that is caramelised on the outside, tender on the inside and bursts with juices when bitten into. 50 Tras Street, 6221 6264.
