In a large park, completely surrounded by fields of hops that grow abundantly in this part of Slovenia, you’ll find the setting for the latest Green Star in the country: namely, the Galerija okusov, run by its dynamic owner (and sommelier) Gašper Puhan together with his wife Vita. This ambitious project, one with strong connections to his family and community and with a historic location right next to an 18C palace, has a clear focus on sustainability, the region, and the use of local ingredients. Working with them in the kitchen is Marko Magajne, a native of this area, and a chef with a strong vocation for the culinary arts, agriculture, gardening, and for cuisine that tells a story and is full of surprises.
We are in Styria, a region teeming with stunning natural beauty and one known for its abundance of thermal waters (a characteristic feature of Pannonian Slovenia) as well as its wine, bread, beer and starch-based dishes. It was here, a decade or so ago that Gašper Puhan decided to open his restaurant, while Marko Magajne, who had previous experience working with Igor Jagodic, chef and owner of the Strelec restaurant in Ljubljana, as well as with Marko Pavcnik, joined the restaurant team in 2015.
“When we started this culinary adventure, it was far from easy”, Puhan tells us. “I remember that the first car we saw drive along the road did a U-turn, so we had to wait for the first restaurant critics in order to see the business really take off. Then things started to improve year by year, so we are now more experienced and we work hard to gain a better understanding of how we can develop and offer an even greater sense of hospitality to our guests”.
One of the keys to the restaurant’s success is the connection that has been established with local producers which has led to a strong spirit of cooperation as well as friendship – ranging from farmers located close to the restaurant to the fish farm situated just a few hundred metres away.
“Now, more than ever before, our work aims to express who we are, as well as our values, our philosophy and our idea of sustainability which earned us our Michelin Green Star; it is also a concept that enables us to take a 360° view of every aspect of our work, from our suppliers to our customers and employees as well as, of course, everything that takes place in the kitchen”, Puhan goes on to explain. “This is also the context within which we work when it comes to serving water in our restaurant. The water in our region is exceptional, inspiring us to combine two passions—design and gastronomy. In collaboration with JRE and Steklarna Hrastnik, we have created a carafe to promote the consumption of tap water in fine-dining restaurants. This initiative showcasing a local resource while at the same time ensuring that water does not go to waste. Encouraging the development of this project, the Slovenian Tourist Board has also begun advocating for the serving of tap water in Slovenian restaurants.”
The restaurant’s success is also down to great teamwork involving a dozen staff in the kitchen and dining room and three in the office. As we have already mentioned, the creativity of the cuisine here comes courtesy of Marko Magajne who started out at Galerija okusov working as a sous-chef. “Initially, I came here to help out during events”, he explains, “and to take care of the garden, before working in the kitchen. I live just a few metres from the restaurant, am the most local member of the entire team and take care of different aspects, including the vegetable plot and garden: if I’m not with my wife or children I am here, a place that is much more than just a restaurant – it is a family and a place for friends. I really enjoy visiting farmers and deciding once a month what they can provide for me and what I can serve guests in the months that follow: for us, community is very important and is part of our identity. We build our menu from what is available”, Magajne continues, “and we change it in line with the seasons, switching dishes as we go along according to what the farmers have available”.
Another of the chef’s passions is baking, hence the continual presence of potato focaccia on the menu, alongside local butter and pumpkin seed oil, one of the pride and joys of the Slovenian terroir. Fermentation is a technique used in ingredients such as trout, which also always features – the fish skin is even used to make “crisps” served as an accompaniment, as nothing is thrown away here. Wild boar, venison, rabbit and other types of game also appear on the menu, as hunting is a sustainable activity which helps to maintain the right balance between nature and the urban environment – these ingredients are typical of this area surrounded by meadows, fields of hops and forests. “I love using hops in desserts, sauces and creams: it is an ingredient that embodies the gastronomic culture of our region and adds a local flavour to whatever I cook”, the chef adds.
Although the restaurant stands in a perfectly preserved historical setting, its interior is modern and welcoming in style, boasting a spacious garden where guests can enjoy lunch in fine weather. In addition to its carefully curated selection of wines (the local and international wine list features around 700 labels), guests at Galerija okusov can also choose from an impressive list of cocktails including options such as Smells Like Smoked Spirit, made with Mezcal, sherry, verjuice, walnuts and salt, and Just Give me a Sour, prepared with Bourbon whiskey, lemon, hops, apple, hazelnuts and rum.
Hero image: Galerija okusov - Matjaž Očko
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