This dish that so encapsulates the season has its roots in another traditional offering: Escudella i carn d'olla. The leftovers of this stew is used the next day to make canelon. "But as time went by, the canelon became more popular than the stew it was made from," shares Noguera.
For Noguera, this dish is one that has been passed down for generations. He says: "When my grandmother made this dish, my mother would help her; My father also made this dish as a chef, and now that I am also a chef, I too help to prepare this dish. I wonder if in the future, my son will also take on this tradition."
In the chef's hometown, they would make canelon using the chickens reared in his aunt's backyard. He says: "We know what the chickens have been eating, so the taste of that juicy and fat meat is the taste of tradition to us."
"Vi Ranci is a type of liqueur used in Catalunya. It's somewhere in between brandy, sherry and vinegar in terms of flavour," the chef shares.
As for the pasta, Noguera says that it is similar to the wanton skins that we have here in Asia.
After a busy day in the kitchen, the best part is finally gathering everyone around the dinner table. He says: "You put the big platter of canelon in the middle and everybody helps themsleves. The little ones might start with one piece, but the big guys will have three or four, just to start!"
Here is Jordi Noguera's recipe for traditional Catalunya canelon:
Makes 30 Canelons (approx 240g each)
Béchamel:
Butter 90g
Flour 90g
Milk 1.5l
Salt
Pepper
Ground nutmeg
1. Make the béchamel by whisking 1 part butter and 1 part flour to make a roux.
2. Finish by slowly whisking in milk, salt, pepper and ground nutmeg till smooth.
Chicken (whole leg) 7kg
Yellow onions 2 kg, peeled and roughly chopped
Mirepoix mix (roughly chopped carrots, celery & yellow onions)
White wine 750ml
Store-bought pasta sheets
Dried prunes 100g, diced
Dried apricot 2.5g, diced
Sundried tomatoes 2.5g
Chicken stock 2l
Chives, chopped
Olive Oil
Salt
Pepper
Vi Ranci
1. Sear the whole chicken leg and set aside.
2. Sautée mirepoix till brown and deglaze with white wine and Vi Ranci.
3. Place the chicken legs in a tray with mirepoix and cover with chicken stock.
4. Cook in the oven for 1.5 hours at 180 degrees Celcius covered with aluminium foil.
5. Strain the stock to reduce to a sauce and set aside.
6. Remove the bones and skin from the meat and blend the meat in the blender.
7. Season the meat with salt and pepper, and pour in chicken jus and béchamel to season.
8. Cut store-bought pasta sheets to 13X13cm and pipe 100g of chicken filling on it and roll into a cylindrical shape.
9. To finish the canelloni, top with béchamel and grated Parmesan cheese, and bake in the oven for 5 minutes at 180 degrees Celcius for colour.
10. Plate with chicken jus and top with dried prunes, dried apricots and sun-dried tomatoes, maldon sea salt, chopped chives and a drizzle of olive oil.