Little has changed at this longtime forefront of LA’s fine-dining scene, and that is a beautiful thing indeed. The dining room is as formal as the suited staff, who are well-orchestrated and on the cooler side of attentive. Even just watching each course as it leaves the kitchen, artistically presented on bespoke plates, is an absolute thrill.

For his tasting menu, Chef Michael Cimarusti sources the freshest and most sustainable seafood, often wild-caught from American waters; and at no point during the meal will you ever doubt its quality. Indeed, purity and precision are the underpinnings of his California cooking, inspired by flavors and ideas from Asia and the Mediterranean. The sheer range of styles proves this kitchen’s versatility in using classic methods to pair seafood with rich sauces. The uni egg served in its shell with warm yolk and champagne beurre-blanc is a luscious signature. Other high points include canapés, like the nasturtium leaf taco filled with sushi rice, arare crackers and sea beans, or pickled sardine crostini with coriander blossom.

Dessert is superb and ends meals on a striking note. To wit: chocolate-infused tea and a tray of delicate mignardises.