For over a decade, Chef Josh Walker has painted broad strokes at this converted 1940s-era gas station, where he's built a loyal following for his take on a wide swath of Asian cuisines. For sure, he isn’t trying to recreate a grandmother’s recipe or satisfy traditionalists. He has his own ideas, which explains how Japanese, Thai, and Chinese influences intersect on the menu. One recent favorite is a play on okonomiyaki, which arrives as a tight latticework of cabbage covered in chili sauce and blanketed in wispy bonito flakes and two thick slabs of bacon. When ordering, let the server know that you aren’t afraid of heat. A long bar anchors the very center of the restaurant, and bartenders are busy shaking away at all hours.