French bistros can be predictable, but this neighborhood corner in Harbord Village takes a wonderfully refreshing approach. One could spend all day taking in the design: The marble bar is a worthy perch for admiring the gorgeous, patterned floors, forest-green ceiling and stylish, wood-paneled walls. And that patio – it’s a summer oasis. The cooking, meanwhile, hits all the right marks, and feels unquestionably French in its richness and satisfaction. Who knew that mushroom beignets could be so light and pair so well with lime and pepper sauce? One could make a meal out of the roasted cauliflower with cumin vinaigrette and puffed chickpeas. Cassoulet with duck confit and steak frites with béarnaise are proper classics.